Thursday 28 May 2009

Broome - Friday 29th May 2009

Hi All,

Here in Broome for 8 days now, came via Whim Creek and 80 Mile Beach, just 500 miles North of Karratha, it has taken a 7 hour drive, NCS looks good in her new coat of many colours (She wanted a little black number!) but she has responded by being just perfect, apart from a few stutters 30 klicks of here, I think I may have mixed a premium Fuel with the normal grade, she does not like that one bit! Petrol prices are creeping up again now upto 86p per litre on the Higway, a captive audience folks!.

I had an email from John Van Voss of Holland (I have posted it for you to read) who questioned the detail of Karrathas Prices, exclaiming that I must know that it is an expensive place, due to the Miners being paid ultra salaries from mining Gold, Iron Ore, Oil, Gas, Alumna, Copper and Coal from the Pilbara Region. John I know that! but this Blog is a a round-robin to many people, if I was to explain in great detail everything, the blog would be 20 pages long. But I Welcome you to the Club and your contribution, Keep them coming Mate!

Yes! I do agree that I may have been a mite unkind to Karratha, due I am sure to the problems with NCS and the so-called Insurance Company. Karratha is a nice Town, the people were very hospitable Great shopping Mall, and the kind of Township that does represent the Pilbara Region.

I stayed at the Peninsular Palms Hotel at Dampier for 2 days (16 Klicks away from Karratha) which was not a Hotel as such, but a very large complex catering for 500+ Contract Workers, quite the best value for money anywhere, $A125 bought you a super room, 3 meals a day, communal wash-facilities and great customer service, which compared at $A350 per day down-town Karratha Hotel which bought you nothing but a room and surly service.

It was at Dampier (The Burrup Peninsular) that a few days exploring, exposed oneself to a Multitude of Aboriginal Drawings (50,000 Years Old) there were so many it posed the question why? (Photo's coming, especially the Copulating Couple) the scene was Rock Formations that looked like they had been tipped out of the back of a lorry, but no! they were the original Rock Formations (I am sure that a geologist would have an answer).

Driving: Highway littered with Wallabies on the way up, also many Cattle (They must be losing a fortune?) but there again the herds are many 1,000's strong.

Saw 1st Accident, South of Whim Creek, 4x4 in front (About 3 miles away) hit a very large Bull that had just wandered into the Road, Bull deaded, 4x4 a write-off but driver OK, since I was only 15 klicks from Whims Creek (the advice is to stay with your vehicle) once I had ascertained the Driver was OK, I reported it at Whims Creek Tavern and they took care of the necessary.

Met some Folks that evening who told me they were going to visit Whims Creek Tavern, since they had not been there since 1966, I told them it had not changed one bit!

Stayed overnight at De Grey River Camp-Site (Freebee)it was the best so far, shaded by Giant Gum Tree's, Camp-Fires burning, and a very large River alongside, about 25 Caravans were camping, obviously a favourite communal site, also saw my 1st Crocodile. Whilst having a Glass of Sherbert with 2 other people on the river-edge, we espied in the centre of the river, what was first thought to be a log, but noticing that the log has surfaced twice and seemed to cast an eye in our direction, we stepped back smartly, "It was a crocodile!!!!"

Funnies: Here at the Broome Towns Beach Camp-Site we are assailed every evening at 5pm prompt by a lady who plays the Accordian, they are all the old favourites, she told me all she needed was someone to sing-along. Stop Folks! I have sealed lips and did not fall into that one, even though I am a Welshman, there is an adage that says "1 Welshman is a problem, 2 are bloody trouble, 3 are a Choral Society" buit she plays beauitfully boyo's!!

Walking into Town, there is a large daubed sign that exclaims "There are no Jobs on a Dead Planet!" - True!

Wildlife: Forgot to mention "Budgies" there are 1,000,000's, plus lots of Crocodiles now, Ibis, Sea Eagles (Look like the American Bald Eagle), Hawks, they also have one bird that is extremely raucous (Looks like a Starling) but has great bright plumage, Magpies are not black & white, they are White and black and are very fond of sweeping down and pecking at the top of your head! Bastards! and of course, the poor old Wallabies, seem 2 Iguana's who just sail across the road and in the old tradition of Sail before Steam, you just slow down and let them sail away.

Photo's: I have not forgotten, it is just that Libraries (Which I normally use) do not allow Photo's to be sent, I have now about 200, but I do have an idea, so do not be surprised if you have on an email a zipped-File of photo's, they will last about 3 hours and I shall have to visit you and explain each on at great length??

Weather: Now coming into Autumn here (Winter in the South) had a few days rain, but nothing to write home about, still at 30 degrees and getting very humid, now sleeping in the "Nuddies" (Hope there are no Fires?) but I will survive.

Health: Looked in the long mirror the other day and my "Love handles" have disappeared, better get a "Full Monty Breakfast" down me before I fade away, but to know my 12 pack is starting to show is embarrassing!

Broome: Yes! John Van Voss is right, it is a major Cattle Exporting Port, but it is also Australia's Centre for Pearl Fishing, started in the 1880's by Chinese/Thais'/Malays/Filipinos/Japanese and Europeans, you can see the traces of all the Nationalities in the Population as you walk the streets. There are many Retail Pearl Shops, they are a delight to behold and prices? I shall not mention.

Aboriginal's: There are a very large Population of Aboriginals in this area, they are interesting to observe (I experienced them at close quarters the last time here during the 80's) They are a Tribal People with many Tribes and Tribal Lands, they are referred to as "The Indigenous People" which I believe to be a blanket description and a little unfair. They are in Stature & Colour (Very Black) to be the same, but they are not, like the Indian Tribes of North America (Sioux - Apache - Cheyenne) they have many Tribal names like: Yawuru-Djugan-Goolarbabooloo-Bardi-Jawi-Nimanbura-Nyal Nyal-Jabirr Jabir- Karajarri and Nyanguarta peoples, and that is just in this area. Their average Life-Span is just 45 years but, they have a proven existance spanning 50,000 Years.

This specific region is where "The Dreamtime" - "Bugarrigarra" originated and rippled throughout Australia using "Song-Cycles" which relayed the stories of "The Dreamtime", so there is just cause perhaps, to address these people by their Tribal names (Though they are long and difficult to pronounce) methinks that in doing that the word "Pride" would infect their physque to everyone's advantage, as at the moment there is an under-current of neglect and unhappiness which is very evident.

I have now completed my 2nd Full Sightsavers presentation to the Broome Rotary Club (Completed 4 presentations in all to-date) they were delighted to have a Guest Speaker from 11,000 miles away who had flown in specially for the night? they have made a promise to review their Charitable Donations and include "Sightsavers" into the fold so to speak. Thank you Folks.

Poor Ole "Nutcracker Sweet" has had a hiccup, although in preparation for going further North, (Oiled, Watered & TLC) she failed to start, Garage suggested batteries (So bought 2 - 75 quid each!!) then an Electrician arrived, who charged A$100 Call-out fee, to find that the Relay between the Starter-Motor and the Alternator needed replacing (Cost A$6), as I write this Blog, I am having her checked out so that there are no more problems, being stuck 250 miles in between major towns would not be funny!!

Tomorrow (Saturday) I head North to Derby, which is very Tropical and Humid, they have told me locally don't do it (Go to Derby they mean) then onto Fitzroy Crossing (Again Don't do it they say!) en-route to Kunnanarra, but I have places that I "Must stop at" and I shall report on my next Blog what the results of those visits are.

The next Blog may well have a gap, this is because further North it is Wilderness and the ability to get to an Email site may well be difficult, but hang-on in there Folk, as I shall return!

Kind Regards

Nigel JG













Tuesday 19 May 2009

Wednesday 20th May 2009 - Karratha

Hi Everyone,

(Including the Lady from Shanghai, who asked if she could join me, and closed her email requesting me to “Send the Money!”)

Photo’s next week I am afraid, cos’ this week has been a difficult one.

Pannawonica: What a place, what great people Toni & Alex are, I am now a much educated “Mining Expert” (Methinks!). The Town is a Company Town, servicing the “Robe Mine” which is Rio Tinto and at which both Alex & Toni work, along with 90% of the 3,000 inhabitants of the Town.

Both Guys (Toni is only 5’ 3”) drive the Huge Tipper Trucks (and many other like-size vehicles, as and when necessary) which hold upto 200 Tonnes of Iron Ore in its raw state, which is then sorted into various grades, loaded onto Trains of 150 Trucks holding 500 Tonnes each and taken to Loading Ports in North Western Australia i.e. Dampier - Port Hedland and Broome.

Alex took me on the “Grand Tour” remarkable!, kitted out in the H&S gear, hard Hat on, (I thought the pay office would be the 1st port of call) I was ready, Alex called up the Company Car, which was an absolutely enormous Tipper Truck (Plenty of Photo’s coming) and once we had surmounted the ladders (All 3 of them) we got to the Drivers cabin, and what a view of the World from there!.

The Mine itself covers about 10 square miles, encompassing all the various vehicles required in servicing keeping the mine operating 24/7 – 365 and boy was it busy! And never-ending, (although I did think that driving around in circles loading and unloading) was boring; no wonder they need a variety of drives.

Photo’s in the bag.

As you can imagine, the pay is good. (Better than good! more like Excellente)

Also met with Darryl Niness of the Karratha Lions Club, who is keen to represent to his small band of followers, the virtues of supporting “Sightsavers International” Thanks Darryl.




Karratha: (The Mining Capital of the Pilbara)

Bugger! Bugger! And Bugger! And Bugger!

After having such a great time, I set off on Monday 11th May to attempt to get NCS repaired, it all seemed so easy, the Manager of the Driver that had hit NCS, accepted responsibility, just get 2 quotes they said, submit them and “Bob’s your Uncle” that was until I hit Karratha.

This is a Cowboy & Indian Country and I have seen the Squaw’s and there are very limited trades people in any one profession, but hey ho! I busied myself finding them, it seemed simple and got promises from 3 Fender Benders that quotes would be sent asap, Great!

Then the problems began, 1st quote arrived (remember NCS cost me $A6,000) for $A5,800 (Just a superficial dent remember) the 2nd could not obtain the parts, the 3rd went on Holiday, then the Insurance Company played funny-buggers, they wanted me to fund repairs/Hotel and Hire Car upfront and they would repay me down the line!! (Where have we all heard that one before?)

Well it has been a battle, millions of emails between myself and the Insurance Company (Who turned out not to be an Insurance Company at all – they were a Fleet Management Company) who despite accepting fault, and since this was a new situation, found that they could not cope and were continually having Conferences about this unorthodox chappie who was Welsh and giving them great hassle.

It was not until I threatened (as a tourist) to go to the local Newspaper with a Human interest story, suggesting that they could not pay their bills, was everything settled, but boy! has it been a hassle!

By the way, Car Repairs at $A5,800, Hotels are $A350 a night (3 Nights) and Car-Hire at $A300 per day (3 Days) that was the figure that I was expected to fork out in advance, with that promise of payment in due course.

I collect NCS on Thursday 21st May and then Folks, I drive North as fast as I can, where to? I do not know yet, just north!

Now the good news! I have completed my 1st Full “Sightsavers” presentation to the Karratha Rotary Club (Photo in the bag) and they kindly donated £250, which is being routed to the UK.

Driving: have now notched-up another 400 Klicks (240 Miles) this week, but must mention “Road-Trains” they are huge, minimum of 36.5 metres long, usually with 3 Bogies/Trailers and travel at the maximum speed of 110 kph (70 Mph), the down-draught not only shakes you, but takes you into a vacuum and you hold on for your life! They tell me that in the North they can by 5/6 Trailers long and do not stop for anything, when you see them you get off the road! That will be interesting.

Petrol/Diesel: Sudden reduction in price now at 66p per litre that’s good.

Woolworth’s: Woolies here are the Tesco of Australia, huge, well presented, a range of goodies that encompasses, at great prices, Food/Hardware/Dry Goods/ Clothes et al, you name it they have it! (For those who had to have their Woolies injection you would need to take a huge breath).

I have travelled this week through Dampier (Good Camping Spot) Point Samson (Good Fish & Chips) Wickham, Cossack and Roebourne (Aboriginal Township) all very interesting in their own way. (Kept me busy)

The next week is a hard one, about 800 klicks (480 Miles) to Broome, hereon in it will be a steep learning curve as I move further North, fortunately it is Winter and the temp’s are starting to fall (29) today and there is a chill in the air in the mornings.

Well as Zeebadee would say, Time for bed Folks! "Good-night"


Nigel JG

Saturday 9 May 2009

Sunday 10th May 2009 - Pannawonica - WA

Hi Boys & Girls,

I thought that before I start this weeks Blog, that you may want to know the terminology that I am encountering. I had mentioned before that I am part of a Tribe known as the “Grey Nomads” (I have noticed to that they are all well into their 80’s) and have travelled from all parts of Australia, e.g:like 8 days travel from Adelaide to Exmouth, to spend 5 Months of the Winter in the North, they exist weekly by awaiting payment of their pensions and if they feel like moving they will do just that, until the pension runs out, then they go on again.(I have decided not to be one of this Tribe).

Then there is the term “Around the Block” that means that anyone, and there are many, including me, who are travelling around the Coast of Australia, and are just going around the block (The last time I went around the block, I had just bought my 1st car, a Standard 10 for £5) and my 1st driving lesson was once around the block. (Mike you will remember that!)

Without exception everyone wishes you a “Good Morning” – “How are you” – “Hows it going” the proverbial “G’Day Mate” and they mean it, (Unlike the “Have a nice dayeeeee” syndrome that we all love) they could not be more helpful, and once they hear the accent, “Behold” they will engage you in conversation and let you know of their very strong connections with the UK.

Pollies (Politicians) are like back home, a laughing stock, on the left we have the Labour (Labor) Party shouting at the Liberals “Wankers! And a plague on all your Policies” with the Liberals on the right, arguing amongst themselves as to “Who has the largest swinging Dick!” (Not my words, they come straight out of today’s National “The Australian” Newspaper) If only it was like this in the UK, we would then be interested in Politics would we not?

Beaches: Now the children have all gone home after the Winter Break, the Beaches are denuded of people and I have spent this week at Exmouth (A National Park) where there are no people, and to spend a day on a 5 mile stretch of Beach “T-bone Bay”, or walk a 10 mile beach on one’s own, is absolutely magical.

Wild-Life: Again, predominantly Kangaroo’s and Emu’s are everywhere, and yet again many dead by the wayside, also there are “Termite Cities” huge mounds of ant-hills that are taller that Nut Cracker Sweet and that stretch for miles across the Countryside, each holding a Billion Ants, they rule this part of the World.

Costs:
Thought you would like to know some costs, Food is the same as the UK, just a shade more expensive where you are out in the sticks, Meat is cheap, that is a T-Bone steak for £3, come on folks it cannot be real! Camping Park charges cost about £10 per night with power, showers, toilets etc available and very clean.

Petrol & Diesel now at 85p per Litre is creeping up as I travel north and the qualities of the Roadhouses are going downhill fast.

I am about to move into the lower end by using the “Free Sites” which are pretty basic and have no charge, but also no facilities. I shall let you know, NCS is self-sufficient and I carry all I need, but it will be an experience.

The National Parks that have, of course, the best beaches charge about £5 for entry and have cheap camping sites, will also try them as and when necessary.

Beer is extortionate at £4.50p per Pint and is not worth it, how the Australians have accepted this situation, I do not know! I am awaiting the Revolution!!

Friday 8th May @ 3.00pm: Well I have now travelled another 633 Klicks (395 miles) North and am parked on my 1st Overnight Free Campsite, it is a treat (It costs nothing!) and to meet other happy Campers, all of whom make a point of coming across, saying hello and inviting you to partake later that night.

Funnies! I have just passed 2 people on bicycles, they are peddling like mad in the direction I have come from, and there is nothing behind me for 200 miles!! Where are they going? Then along comes a motorbike with a trailer! They are fully kitted up and must be boiling away to nothingness!

Tomorrow, Saturday I travel about 46 klicks to stay with Alex & Toni Reid in Pannawonica, a Real Mining Town, where they both have kindly arranged for me to visit the Iron-Ore Mine where they both work, and as they both drive these absolutely Huge Tipper Trucks, the photos should be good and I should have improved my education on Mining.

Photo’s: As I have taken about 100 photo’s to-date, and since I have declared that my intent is not to rub it in, I thought that next weeks Blog, (now that I have learnt to up-load photo’s) will be a selection of them, so you are forewarned, just do not open them up!

Tragedies: I had meant to tell you this way back, but I thought that the Post would catch up with me by now, but to-date nothing! It is that one of the parcels I sent ahead of me, has gone astray, it would be the one that contains all my diaries from the 80’s when I was last here, you know the one’s that contains all the names, addresses, telephone numbers of all those people that I knew, one parcel did come out to Australia and was read wrong and sent back, I am hoping the same has happened again, if so I will be lucky, if not then, I will remain bereft of that information.

Accident I am afraid, I closed the tailgate of NCS right on my Nobes (Nose) and as my mother used to call me a little bleeder, I know she was right! Not broken, but a gash all the same.

Yes! Things do come in 3’s, I arrived in Pannawonica early (Surely not early some of you would say?) and managed to use a Caravan Park facilities, like the Ablution Block to S,S&S, then after 6 weeks of motoring gave NCS the best wash & brush-up she had ever had, and boy! Did she look good!

I then parked outside the home of my Friends Alex & Toni, only to have later that day, a chap in the house opposite, reverse out at speed and ran into the side of NCS, Damage? Superficial, but it will now be the inconvenience of getting it repaired, it has been suggested that I wait till I get to Broome, (800 klicks – 480 miles away, there is possibly no-one in between.) before I get a quote!!!!!!!!

Coffee: This is for the Girls at Costa’s Coffee CafĂ© in Weymouth, No Girls! There is no where to get a decent coffee here like you make it Girls, although there was a close 23rd and it was called “Brumby’s” in Exmouth. Thanks Girl’s.

So now I shall just “Sod Off” for this week.

See you in 7days!


Nigel JG

Sunday 3 May 2009

Monday 4th May 2009 - Exmouth


This is my Aspiration!!

Well Folks,


A little later than the normal 7 days, but it has been a busy time, places to go, people to meet, things to do.

There is a catch-up from last weeks Blog, and that is that I did not give Ron (Bunbury) his just desserts. Ron is Cardiff lad who came out here many years ago and instigated, developed, and nurtured, “Soccer” in South West Australia, with many of the Clubs having a “Red Dragon” as part of their logos. Shortly he will be organising another of Soccer’s “Hall of Fame Events” (Happens every 5 years) where Ron in his Presidential mode, will be the Master Organiser.

As I have said before, the Master Plan on the envelope is now way off course, the help and advice from everybody, has meant that there are places that I must visit, based upon local knowledge, and they are proving to be just that, Thanks Folks.

I also said that I did not want this Blog to be a “Wish you were here” Blog; I want it to reflect events as they arise and those that overtake me as I mosey along.

The route is the Coastal Highway, which runs all around Australia and is Number 1, for those that have a map and are following avidly.

I am now into my 2nd week and having reached Exmouth, via Bunbury – Perth – Dongara – Kalbarri – Denham - Monkey Mia (Where Dolphins swim with people) - Carnavon – Coral Bay and now Exmouth, distance? 1813 Klicks (1,133 Miles). My initial plan was to do about 100 miles a week, now blown right out of the water because of the great distances involved, and that many locations are not about 50 miles apart they are 250 miles apart.

Driving: Cost are now escalating, from the initial 52p per litre in Perth, now an average of about 70p per litre as I move further North (Delivery costs).

Roads: They are straight as a Die and the only way I can describe the conditions is that they are empty, it is like getting on the M1 at Leeds and the car in front of you is in Northampton.

Wild Life: In abundance, Eagles, Foxes, Dolphins, Sheep, Cattle, Emus, Goats, Pelicans and Fish galore, all shapes and sizes, and the poor old Kangaroo’s? They are now very evident and everywhere, but the Roads are littered with dead ones, hundreds of them, (Methinks that there are none left!).

Funnies: Arrived in Dongara and booked into Camper Park, only to hear a Beautiful Welsh Lilt from the receptionist, (It was Margaret from Llandeilo) who gave another Welsh person all the help he needed.


How about T.BONE & SON (Butchers) or a Cafe where you can have coffe and a massage!!


At Kalbarri it was ANZAC Day, and boy! do they do it in style,

The First Service was at 6am, this commemorates the start of the day for Soldiers past preparing for Battle, then at 11am the main Service, which is attended by everyone especially the young who are being reminded that “Lest we Forget” and “We will Remember Them” are poignant reminders of the debt we all owe the fallen. It was here that I also met with Len Mitchell (They do not have Mayor’s) the Head Honcho of Kalbarri, who through the Rear Admiral (Guest speaker at the service) whom I had the opportunity to discover he and his wife had a very strong connections with Weymouth & Portland.


The photos that I took of the ANZAC memorial on Weymouth Promenade have been sent to them and they want to start to discussions on Kalbarri possibly twinning with Weymouth (I have put this matter in hand).

At Shell Beach (Near Denham) I met Sharon & Brian from the Lake District, who are down-under for 6 weeks. We found that they, by coincidence, and I, were booked into the same Camper Parks, and boy! Did we get on well; they will remain a cherished memory of this trek.

SightSavers International: Am making progress Folks, now had 2 meetings, 1st in Bunbury (Through Ron) whereby a Town Councillor Derek Spencer, who has a Network of noted people throughout Australia, has kindly put my details in the pipeline to all the Rotaries, Lions Clubs, Chambers of Commerce et al, for them to make contact with me to book dates for a Guest Speaker.
Thanks Derek.

Then in Carnarvon (No relation to Caernarfon – This is named after Lord Carnarvon of the Mummy Tutten Ka Mun fame) I met with the President of the Rotary Club, but since I had missed their regular meeting, he gave me the Directory of all the Rotary Clubs in Australia, so I can now make bookings well in advance. Thank you.

I was asked this week (email) if I was lonely and if I was Happy? Well! In short form I am both, because they are both relatives, a) I have been on my own for nigh on 90% of my live, the nature of the work that I have done, so I have never been that lonely and b) Happiness is egg shaped, round and oval and effected by the people you meet, events that take place, they are what determines happiness at any one time, the answer? “I am perfectly happy in my own skin.”

To finish this week on a Good News note, I have lost a stone in weight, feel great, walking every day, now swimming every day and eating regular, (Kangaroo meat tastes beautiful), and am now a slighter shade of Black! (For those of you who say “Bugger Off Nigel” I shall).

Back in 7 days Folks.

Nigel JG