Sunday 28 June 2009

Monday 29th June 2009 - Katherine

Hi Everyone,

Well here I am! DARWIN, 8,000 klicks (5,000 Miles) after leaving Bunbury in April, and visiting those many places in between, many of which I have not yet noted in detail.
If I was to draw the actual route I have taken, and then compare that to the initial intended route, the comparison would be enormous.

Arrived 7 days ago via Pine Creek and Adelaide River 300 Klicks (180 Miles) from Katherine.

The Stuart Highway into Darwin was quite the best scenic route I have driven on so far, apart from a major bushfire en-route, that had been started deliberately and as it turned out, was a controlled Bushfire, where they bombard the bush with Petrol Bombs by air to create a Fire-break, it was very alarming as it was just 100 metres off the highway, and I had no idea what was going on, until the Police explained. Strewth Matey’s did I sweat a little!

Pine Creek was a very nice old Township, created in the 1880’s when Gold was discovered nearby, many of the old buildings still remain, Old Steam Trains, Mine shafts et al, with the only local store owned by a Chinese Family, Mom, Pop, Daughters and Sons, (just like home).

Adelaide River was the frontier town of WW2, although a very busy Pit Stop town, was worth pausing in and very interesting, because as I neared Darwin (The Northern Territory State Capital) a dramatic increase in both Traffic and People became very evident.

Then into Darwin, what a change in scenery, A City of wide streets, Avenue’s of all types of Palm & Coolibar Trees everywhere (It is a Tropical City similar to Singapore but smaller in size) large laid-out Parks and Walk-ways, great Shopping areas, and as you would expect, outdoor restaurants offering a wide choice of menu’s across the whole spectrum of dishes. (Barramundi and Chips! Just lovely)

The Bus service is exemplary, for just $A2 (£1) you can get a ticket that lasts for 3 hours, and you can hop on and off as you like, to visit any location.

The Northern Territory is 4 times larger that the UK, with a total population of 250,000 of which a 100,000 live in Darwin.

A Cosmopolitan City which has suffered 4 times in it’s history by being completely obliterated by either Cyclones -3 ( the latest Tracey in 1971) or War in 1942, when the Japanese bombed the City and dropped more bombs that they did at Pearl Harbour.

In each case the City was totally rebuilt and since 1974 all buildings have been built using pre-stressed concrete, thus ensuring that they will weather the next Cyclone, or any other adverse storms.

In the rebuild the types of buildings are stimulating, very much Art-Deco, very Colourful using pastel colours everywhere, which complement the population, who come from every corner of the World, in particular the Asian countries of Japan, China, Philippines, India, Indonesia and all.

Due to the need to be able to press the Japanese during WW2, this part of the Australia (known as The Top-End) became the focal jumping off point for those attacks, and it shows (even after 65 years) there are WW2 Airfields, Army Camps, Military Museums, Cenotaphs, many Memorials everywhere to anybody that took part, but all worthy of visiting (which I have done).

Being the State Capital and the major Administrative Centre for the Northern Territory, the Government Buildings are huge and majestic, be they the State Parliament Building, National Library, The Supreme Court et al, having had a tour it was truly enlightening, they also have a huge Convention Centre, which has an artificial Wave Beach, what great fun! never ever thought I would surf the waves like I did.

I forgot to tell you that my Camp-Site, the nearest to the centre of Darwin, is called “Shady Glen” Magic? Quiet? Shady? Not on your life! I am at the end of the runway of both the International and Military Airports, the Domestic flights by day (when I was out and about) and then (There must be a war on some-where) during the night, flights of War-Planes (6 at a time) thundering past NCS and little ole me!! Am I nuts or what? (Methinks we should move).

Sightsavers: Completed a Sightsavers presentation to the Darwin Nightfill Lions Club, they again have promised at their next Financial Meeting to debate and agree a donation.

NB: (Managed to get press coverage for Sightsavers at Katherine, see; www.katherinetimes.com.au date 17th June - Page 7, top right-hand corner, please ignore the Englishman bit!)

Aboriginals: (The local tribal people are the Lakkaria and are in a definitive minority here).
I have also decided that I shall cease noting the Aboriginal – Tribal situation here, other than to say in a Country that has a population of 21+ million people, 500,000+ being Tribal peoples from approx’ 500+ different tribes, the very last Tribe to walk out of the desert naked with spears, was in 1984 just 35 years ago, it is a continuing disaster for them.

What is a very wealthy nation in both resources and peoples, doing about the problem basically nothing! as Pollies (Politicians) they could not organise a "Piss up in a Brewery"

In other words, a policy of short-termism, and to never be held responsible for your decisions or actions, that is the way that all politicians the World over operate. End of Story!

Will things really change?, sorry Folks methinks not, never in a 1,000 years, they (The Pollies) are paying lip-service to the problems and thinking that throwing money in the form of benefits at the problem, does not work out that way.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I depart for “Berry Springs” which is about 30 miles South from Darwin (having done Darwin to death and walked at least 1,000 miles, well it felt like it!) which has been a firm recommendation by many of those people I have met along with way.

Berry Springs is a delight, Serene and peaceful, I can hear Birds singing, the sun is shining and I am surrounded by trees of every type, and the price is only $A19 (£9.50) per night (Darwin was $A30 (£15) per night) I have a very large Pod, that is what they call them, my own allocated space.

From here I can reach out to those many suggested “Must Visit” sites that have been on my list, problem is that there are so many that I cannot do them all, so for those of you who have kindly noted those locations “Thanks Guys”

Staying here for 8 nights, because my next port of call is intended to be “Alice Springs” that is 1500 Klicks away (900 Miles) so I need to gird my lions for that trek.

Although in confidence I must tell you that I have doubts on making that journey, I have flown over “Uluru” (Ayers Rock) at least 20 times and there is nothing in my being that tells me that I must actually visit the place.

So when I get to "Tennants Creek", I shall decide whether to turn sharp left for "Townsville", or carry on down to “Alice”.

Spent the day exploring Berry Springs, found they have a large pool with a Water-Chute, boy! was it great to race down shouting Yippeeee! That made them sit-up and notice, have not done that in 30 years!

They also have nearby (3 klicks) Hot Spring Waters, similar to Katherine, but larger pools, they suggest that you take your Snorkel with you to view the Fish, Binoculars to spot the Birds, Camera to record it all, next they will tell me what colour my Togs should be! So I did and it was great!

I walk every morning with my neighbour Len Burton the 3 klicks to get our papers and chew the cud that keeps me fit! Elaine Burton is my avid Book person, who has refilled my Library. Thanks to you both.

My next door neighbours Martin & Denise Yard have been very helpful in suggesting alternatives to my intent to attach an Awning to NCS, thanks Guys your advice is appreciated.

Driving: Petrol/Diesel is still at £0.62p per litre and at Woolworth’s you can, if you spend $A30 (£15), get an extra 8 cents off per Litre.

Forgot to mention, that in WA all vehicles have to have an immobiliser, the only state in Australia, to have such theft proof devices.

The other thing I had not mentioned (There are many) is the pride and joy that an Australian has in the cleanliness of their cars and caravans, they are kept immaculate at all times, when they arrive on camp, the number 1 priority is to wash the vehicles, polish the Caravans, I would confirm that when they arrive they are very very dirty.

Someone mentioned to me that if they were to take all the vegetation off the surface of Australia, they would be left with a red planet called “Mars” I thing they are right!

Funnies: Darwin’s ratio of Girls to Boys is 5/1 in favour of the Girls! Now therein lies a story somewhere!

Where in the World can you get a town called “Humpty Doo” except in Australia, a small township enroute to “Kakadu National Park”, not much there, but you have to go and experience it.

Sunday is a dry day here, not a beer to be had! It reminded me of Old Wales, when there was religious prohibition and again no drinking on Sunday (the Sabbath) but an organised Charabanc to England soon sorted that one out!

Saw amidst the many Caravans a Welsh Flag flying proudly, upon investigation, a couple from North Wales who had been down under since 1966, but had to ensure that the Welsh Flag was always flying. (The Ladies husband allowed this, providing the Australian Flag was at the top of the pole)

Wildlife: There is still a variety of wildlife, but they do rely of Crocodile’s as the main players here, they have one called “Sweetheart” who is 5 metres long and has been trained to be able to leap out of the water and take a steak off a pole from the guy in the front of the boat, with 15 people looking on, including me; for my next trick!!

There was case reported last week of a Family having a picnic at Daly Road River, their pet dog decided to have drink, a Croc got him in one fell swoop!

Factual reports say that 3 people have been taken recently, so I am a wary swimmer, despite the notices that warn you to be careful at certain times, I am extremely careful at all times!

There are Wild Boars in abundance and many press photographs of recent kills of the huge beasts, confirm that.

Should mention Mosquito’s & Sandflies, they are present by the billion and remind one of the Midges plagues of Scotland. "Boy! do they bite your Bum!!"

I went one morning to shave and thought I had a bit of cloth on my shoulder, no it was a Giant Spider, I wrestled to the ground, spread his/her 8 legs looked him/her in the eye and Squelch!! That was that!

Then we have the appearance of the dreaded Cane Toad here, a beast of a Toad that was introduced into Queensland to cure a problem with pests in the Sugar Cane Plantations, the cure has become an almighty problem, and there is a price on the head of everyone reported or killed.

Also present are Road-Runners (Egrets), who are a scream to behold, running just like the cartoon figure. Meep! Meep! Plus Plovers everywhere.

Health: I have to report that my health is A1, my toes are perfect, my diabetes perfect, (that is, no side effects) my weight loss continues, but at a slower rate, but 2 stone lighter makes me feel great!

NCS: NCS is performing very well, I have been titivating her with little make do and mend situations, today (Part of that) was the thought to have an awning built into her roof, in thinking that I heard an Electrician working just a few camper-vans away, I asked him if he could drill some holes for me, no problem says he! And proceeded to do just that, he then commented “Is the Van for Sale?” I said yes but not for another 9 months, no problem he said, “How much?” I told him the purchase price was A$6,000, he replied, “OK let me know when you are ready and I shall come and collect her for A$6,000” Woweee! I said to myself, he gave me his card and in due course we shall see what happens!

Fishing: I have never been fishing seriously in my life, but as already explained it is a National priority here, tomorrow I am going fishing with “Alec Hall” a 79 year old “Nomad”, we are going to fish for Barramundi, that Australian delicacy, I shall let you know the result, if we catch a fish or two, perhaps three then there will be photo’s!

Sorry folks have to report that it was an interesting experience, but no Fish!! But we are going again on Saturday; do not wait around to be fed!!

Then Alec suggested that as his main hobby is prospecting, would I like to come with him on a Prospecting Day, of course the answer was yes! Along with Claus and Uta (Germans from Tasmania) we set of in 33 degrees of heat, 95% humidity, drove about 200 klicks (120 miles) to an area that Alec foresaw was an opportunity for us to make our fortunes.

No Luck! I am again afraid to report, but did I learn something boy and I am now a learned experienced Prospector!

I am now back in Katherine, via Edith Falls, for 2 days to send this Blog, and have NCS carb’ cleaned out, then the grand trek South and East, next weeks bulleting will reveal all, and which direction I have decided to take.

Keep Well all.

Nigel J Gauder

Wednesday 17 June 2009

Thursday 18th June - Darwin

Hi Everyone,

Just back to Kununurra for a sec’, before the damming of the major water arteries that fed into a central waterway and which had become a mighty problem with constant flooding of the Town, the decision was made to build a Dam and therein the creation of Lake Argyle, which has now made Kununurra into a Major Tourist Resort, and a “Must stop Place” on the Victoria Highway, the Dam also provides Electricity and Irrigation for the population (60% of which are Tribal Peoples).

Should also mention the famed “Boab Tree” (Bottle Tree) which only grows in the Kimberley region and can age upto 2,000 years of age, they grow to enormous proportions, you can get 12 people holding hands around the girth of the trunk, the bark of the tree is 4 inches deep, after that it is a pulpy mash which can, and has been, literally tapped (Beer tap) for water. (Photo’s enroute) the branches grow from the neck of the tree, with flowers that remind me of Magnolia Trees and seeds that are like coconuts.

Then on into Timber Creek, (Home of the Ngaliwurrai Nungali peoples) just came into town to find it had had a power-cut and therefore no Petrol (Ugh!) and Victoria River (the next petrol stop) being 90 klicks away, as I have a reserve 5 gallon can of Gas, I made it! But only just!

Via Victoria River (Home of The Nungia Tribe) is a very nice township, a Farming Town, local markets, good Pub food (Wedding in progress) and of course, Petrol, and believe it or not Police-cars who proceeded to chase a motorist (Followed by me) for miles and miles, what fun!

Then into Katherine, 500 Klicks (300 Miles) later - (Home of The Jawoyn Tribe) - (That experiences regular flooding, depths of 10 metres at times, from the Katherine River that runs through the heart of the Town). A Major Regional Centre that they tell me caters for meeting the demands of the Tribal Peoples, and I believe it, the number of Legal offices advertising what service they can provide (at a price – someone is making oodles of cash out of other people misery!) were many.

A town with Traffic Lights!! a very strange phenomena, and one’s that the locals like to dodge (their Rat Runs).

Katherine and area, has I found a “No Alcohol Ban” for Tribal peoples being enforced, did it have any effect? methinks the answer is no! they will, and do, find a way around the ban and it is very evident when you visit town the following morning, they litter (as well as their rubbish) the parks and streets in a very drunken state.

The Visit to Katherine Gorge was truly amazing, back to what mother nature has done, bathing in the “Hot Springs” was terrific and the different people you meet from all over the World to chat too, whilst swimming, is an experience.

1st Funny: It was 400 klicks back from here that I gave a lift to 2 fellers (tribal speak!) 1 Full Blood, and a white Guy, the Tribal feller was “The Captain” the other was Steve the “Bushtucker-Man” boy! did they assail me on how they survive in the bush, Steve had been on the road for 7 years, living amongst the Tribal peoples, dinner last night (for them) was the Tail of a Wallabie fresh from a road kill, shades of Oxtail soup! Photos available soon.

Sightsavers: Presented on behalf of Sightsavers to the Katherine Lions Club, really nice people, with a donation being routed, also managed to get an interview with the “Katherine Times” (Edition on web asof 19th June) Jean Young is a stalwart of the Club, along with her Dog. (She did offer to give me cash! for some unknown reason I declined).

Driving: Petrol is now down to 62p per Litre and Road-Trains have increased both in number and size, I have mentioned traffic-lights earlier.

Wild-life: Fruit Foxes by the million, now seeing many new varieties of birds, The Barramundi Fish (Barra) - (Barramundi has to get a mention thrice cos’ it is the National Dish) and apart from Drinking & Fishing is the main love of an Australians life. (man or woman)

2nd Funny: Witnessed a Cattle round-up, on one camp-site where there were many cattle, we heard the sound of a Helicopter and boy! did the cattle know who is was, they all exited stage-right at some speed followed at close quarters by the Wasp Helicopter, about 500 cattle were last seen stampeding over the hill. What a sight to behold!

Modes of Travel: I have to tell you Guys that I have never seen such a variety of transport in my life as you see everyday here, from the one man/woman traveller in their Fiesta type car & tent, to the Gin Palaces of the Winnebago’s, (Some people have “Sold-Up” including their home, and taken to the open road, where they intend for the foreseeable future to remain) many tell me that they have been on the road for between 3 – 10 years, and Yes! I do believe that 50% of the Australian population are on the move at any one time.

Places of Interest: I did say earlier that this Blog is not a “Wish you were here” Blog, but I have visited many many tremendous places that I shall relate in due course, but all have been educational and wonderful.

NCS: She has had a new Fuel-Filter (A$20) and is running well and we are heading for Darwin, which I mentioned in my last Edition, and was always the major focus and target of this trip, having worked and lived in all the other Australian Capital Cities, this will complete and close the circle.

Photos: I owe you Guys an apology, “Sorry Folks!” but I need to just tell you that I have many many photo’s, (200++ in all) my problem has been my Laptop, which has really been messing me about, but the good news is that for $A100, I have had it deloused, decoked, they found 50 TrojanViruses which they have removed and doctored my laptop to work OK.

But, just in case, I have sent to my friend Martin in the UK a CD with 200 Photo’s that he is going to place on the Blog, these will be with you shortly, so thanks for bearing with me.

I now head for Darwin, which is 300 Klicks (180 Miles) away and where I intend to stay for a little while, I will give you the run-down of the City life in all its glories in the next edition.

Love you Guys


Nigel JG

Sunday 7 June 2009

Monday 8th June - Kununurra


G'Day Everyone.

Here I am 1152 Klicks (720 Miles) further on into my Trek.

I am now in Kununurra the heart of the Kimberley Region in the North West part of Australia, this is Diamond Country and an extremely scenic part of the world, with many Gorges, Lakes, Meteor Craters, and Sunsets that move the Soul.

This region is the home of the Miriuwung Gagerrong Tribe, numbering about 2,600 souls many of whom are very industrious, they own and run the Tourist Attractions. Although they are very expensive, a round trip, staying overnight with Breakfast by Plane to e.g: Horizontal Falls, will set you back A$700 (350 Quid) and there are many trips like that.

There is an overwhelming feeling amongst the many people whom I have met and talked with, that prices are now too over-the-top and the concensus is that many will not be returning to Western Australia.

Warts and All: I Made this statement at the very start of my Blog; Well sorry Folks here are the warts! Having got NCS fully serviced when I bought her, I have found that a full service was not carried out and New Plugs and Points which were charged for, were not done, Then when She started to stutter et al, at Broome I got an Auto-Electrical Company to check her out, they assured me that having charged $A100 for the call-out, then $6 for the relay switch, I needed 2 new batteries, which all in all cost me $A400, That I thought would be that, well I was wrong!

I set off for Kununurra, via Derby (Pronouced Durby) and 400 klicks into the trek, she stuttered again and faded and I was forced to pull into a Rest-Area, where any and all fellow travellers who saw a bonnet open, volunteered assistance and advice. I then, because there are no Phone Service coverage, Vodafone (Zilch!) Telstra (Zilch!) even the Safari Buses do not carry Satelite Phones, I found myself well and truly stuffed.

Then full of idea's I started to write my RAC details, location etc. etc out many times and handed these out to people who were travelling North/South/East & West, some kind people thought they would contact the Police (if they saw them) and believe me I had great hope, 60 hours later with no sign of anyone , food supplies dwindling, water stocks dwindling, I thought "What do I do next?"

Then, (this is a true story Folks) a large bus arrived, towing another Van behind it, I noticed it just as another traveller, then behold the largest, bluffest, tallest Fellow (He wore a 10 gallon Australian Akubra) approached me, introduced himself as Max and informed me that he had met someone who told him my plight, and if he was going this way, could he tell me that they had tried to get assistance.

Max started by asking me if I wanted the "Good News? or Bad News?" I said the Bad news 1st, he then related that the local garage 100 klicks away, would only come to my rescue if I gave them $A400 cash in their hand, my answer was to tell them to Piss-Off! then the "Good News!" Max was a Pentecostal Minister (Looking after 6 Fijian Children in the Bus) and has worked with the Aboriginal Community for 27 Years, secondly, he was a Country Mechanic and he would fix things for me.

He did Folks, he took of the Distributor Cap fiddled with the points, told me they had not been changed in umpteen years and NCS roared into Life and ran for the next 752 Klicks like a song-bird, that without a doubt was "Divine Intervention", I am now firm believer!

Should mention that the RAC refused to come out to rescue me, I have gave them a right bollocking.

I have had new points & Plugs fitted, again confirmed that the ones already were old and battered, here in Kununurra (I stood over them as they fitted them) now I think that the small problems are behind me, all part of the learning curve.

Funnies: Thought to tell you that my registration number back in the UK was 551, NCS is 553, is that not a co-incidence?

Sign in Shop " Stealing is illegal, the Government does not like Competitors!"

Learnt how to have a "Washing Machine" on the move, you have a large bucket with a sealable lid, put in your "Omo Liquid" fill with hot water, place washing in, and whilst you are on the move, it is shaken all about and washes your clothes, is that not brilliant? all you have to do is rinse them out at the other end.

Went Sunday morning shopping, decided to have 2 rounds of toast and coffee, observed whilst waiting that there was a very old Aboriginal Lady, who was having the Full Monty, as well as a tray of Tea, she ate it all very daintily and rubbed her hands with glee when she finished, That was beautiful I thought!

Wild Life: Lots of Crocodiles now, they are everywhere, in the creeks and rivers, but as they are Freshies (Salties are Sea Crocodiles) they are harmless, but!!, Gulars (Red breasted Cockatoo's) Snakes (Poisonous) and believe or not many many Wild Horses.

Interesting people: Met with a crowd of Swiss people out of Zurich, they had actually sent their 2 fully loaded vehicles by ship, flown in, picked up their 4X4's and had been travelling through the outback (real outback for 12 months) boy! what a trek!

Thought you would like to know whatever happened to "Lord McAlpine" that noted stalwart of the Tory Party (Treasurer) during Margaret Thatchers day, who departed for Australia to set-up a Zoo, he now own's the major part of Broome and Cable Beach and is making oodles of cash! (Read "Once a jolly Bag-Man!")

Rain: It has rained on only 4 days since I came out here, they call them showers and indeed they come and go very quickly, but boy! are they Big Showers!

SightSavers: Now have 3 presentations pencilled in, they are proving for me to be a point of focus, 2 Lions Clubs (Kununurra and Katherine) and 1 Rotary (Kununurra).

NCS's New Clothes: Sorry but I have given NCS a new dress, a little black number, (Painted out the "Adventure before Dementia" on the front wheel cover) and am about to replace it with "The Nutcracker Sweet" when I can find a Graphic Artist to do it for me, methinks this will encourage her to behave from here on in. (Bribery!)

Reflections: This great Country is making History on the hoof! it is happening every day, in the absence of Castles, 2,000 years of any settled (White) human History, there is a great reliance on the Geography/Topography of the Land to make up for any short-falls, the Gorges, Rivers, Forest's & Vast Open Plains, and what Time, Water & Wind has done in the form of erosion to the landscape is making up by offering to the visitor a wide and varying choice of Mother Nature at her very best.

I now route myself to Darwin, that will complete the circle of my having visited or worked in all the Major Cities, Darwin (Named after Charles Darwin) should be really interesting, see next bulleting for details:-

That is all this week Cobbers!

Nigel JG