Saturday 1st August 2009 - Townsville

Well Folks this is Townsville, just 400 Klicks (250 Miles) East of Hughenden and after 6 hours of careful driving, via the A6 Flinders/Bruce Highway which, like the previous road before Hughenden, is in urgent need of repair but, as I got nearer to Townsville, there was a rapid change to better road conditions.

I am ensconced just 4 klicks from the Town Centre, in The Rowes Bay Camp-site and alongside a 10 mile long sandy beach, overlooking Magnetic Island (so-called by Captain Cook, due to his Compass being put out of sync’ by the magnetic pull of the Island) Townsville itself is called after a Governor called Towns, about 150 years ago.

The last time I was here was 20+ years ago and Boy! Has it changed! From a small sleepy township of circa’ 60,000 people, to a Hustling, Bustling City of 250,000 people, with all that goes with that rapid growth, Plus it has a very large Military Base, used by all 3 services and recently 27,000 Americans and Aussie Troops took part in an exercise from here, it is this that sustains the City’s core Wealth.

But it still looks as inviting as it did then. Here for 2 weeks a) to catch my breath and b) to undertake 2 Lions and 1 Rotary Club presentations for Sightsavers, plus recall the sights asof 20 odd years ago, (The Townsville Sunrise Rotary presentation was on Friday 31^st July @ 6.30am, which included breakfast, and attended by 65 Rotarians, the most ever to-date)

You may recall one of my 1^st Blog’s, that noted that I viewed the journey from Bunbury to Townsville as a great adventure, and it has been all of that, even the small problems with NCS I have viewed as par for the course but in that, as I arrived on the East Coast of Australia (an area that I had worked extensively in the 80’s) I did express that perhaps it would not have the same excitement and boredom may set in, we shall see as I go!

Whilst here I will catch up with Tim Thomas (The Carpenter from Hughenden) who is working locally and also doing up, with a friend of his (Dave), a very large Catamaran, I have had the grand tour and have booked my around the world cruise as a deckhand in 3 years time, when it will be ready.

NCS: She cost less than what I thought, although I must tell you Spiro (The Garage) had primed me to expect a huge bill! It was actually A$1,600 (£800) instead of the initial estimate of A$3/4,000 (£2,000) that was a great relief I can tell you. She drove majestically all the way, even allowing for the suggested halts by Spiro, to check oil, water etc etc; which I did religiously, but it was nerve-racking all the way, listening for each odd sound, cough and splutter! But, I am here!

I have also had a small financial break with the Katherine Toyota Garage, the one that fixed everything? then it all fell apart once I was safely 200 klicks away from them, I took them to task and threatened legal action if they did not redeem me for the so-called shoddy workmanship they had done to NCS, after much to-doing on their part, they eventually coughed-up my A$481 that I had paid them, on pain of death and public exposure!! That will buy a few more Cigars!!

Spiro who had asked me to keep him posted on NCS’s progress! That is to be a two-edged sword; does he want to know how good his work has been? Or is he expecting a major calamity? I shall test the water on your behalf’s.

Post this paragraph, I had cause through Tim Thomas to utilise a Garage Friend of his to double-check NCS, you would not believe this Folks, but the timing was 21 Points out and the connecting cable to the Temp’ gauge had not been reconnected !!!!! Costs for correcting them A$20 (£10) what are we to do with these Guys??

Miscellaneous Info’: Did you know that Australian’s invented Corrugated Sheeting, which is now used throughout the World?

That 1 in 2 Australians will contract some form of cancer during their lifetimes, 50% of the population, the highest figure in the World?

That Road-Trains were created in Australia and 95% of long distance Cargo is delivered via this system. Throughout Australia, there are many Company Road-Train Vehicles, but many are owner-driven costs? Between A$250,000 & A$500,000 and that is just for the Motor Unit?

Have to explain the Aussie BBQ, it is indeed a National Institution, and relied on by all travellers who have a need to cook something up whilst on the move, this is facilitated by both the National and Local Governments, with rest areas, parks, etc: all having in-place a Gas fired BBQ, paid for by the authorities, and appreciated by all as a National right, they go along with the camp open wood-fires, that are part and parcel of Australian historical life, encapsulated in the song Waltzing Matilda - “Once was a Swagman camped by a Billabong” – all of that is in the psyche’ of the National Culture and ardently fostered by the powers that be.

An interesting note: It seems that all Australians talk about Towns & Cities like they are just around the corner, I believe this epitomises the great travelling desire of Aussies to know and experience their Country, with walk-about’s come drive-about’s being the core of that need and they yearn to do it! No matter what age, I have met 19 year old and 78 Years olds, Men, Women, entire Families, Couples, that are on the road or have been one the move for periods of “Just starting, to being in their 10^th Year”.

NHS UK v NHS Australia: I had a need to replenish my stock of diabetes tablets and approached the local Doctor in Hughenden, it turned out that she was a Torres Islander, extremely pleasant and well versed in matters Diabetes (They had just finished a National Diabetes Awareness Week) she understood that there was a reciprocal arrangement with the UK NHS, but informed me that her Surgery was a private one and a 10 minute interview would cost me A$100, she instead pointed me to the local Hospital, where she took the afternoon surgery, (and it was for free) she also took my blood count which was at 6.2% (Very good) and gave me a prescription for 500 Tablets (A years supply for A$110) not a better service anywhere in the World, and I know!!

Funnies: Remember the American Grocer in Hughenden, well I went and placed a small bunch of grapes in a bag and proffered payment, he refused payment, and insisted that they were “Free of Charge”!

Then, same day when I visited the Butchers and asked for 4 rashers of Silverside, which he then cut for me, and said that they too were “Free of charge”!

I was truly amazed at the generosity of the people of Hughenden (Perhaps they thought I was need of feeding-up, since I have been told my weight loss is taking its toll).

Message on the wall of a Gents Toilet in Torrens Creek: “Sex is like Snow, it is unexpected and may be more than a few inches, when it comes, it is a surprise, and when it is gone, you miss it”

Signed: (Believe it or not by a) Nigel.

Good News Week:

Now the Real “Good News Story” after a bit of researching, I found “Max the hat” (The Pentecostal Minister who helped me when I was broken down) his real name is Max Wiltshire and if you browse the web i.e. www.tan.org.au you will read a truly amazing and interesting story on what this man has done, it is also a fact that he relates his involvement with the Tribal Peoples in a very pragmatic way, and after 32 Years of involvement he should know.

I am going to be in touch by email and ask him if he can assist with the development within the Tribal Peoples of Sightsavers International, as there is an urgent requirement in the Tribal communities for such help as specialist’s like Sightsavers can give regarding Cataracts, which many Tribal people suffer from.

Wildlife: A flock of Emu’s crossed my path enroute to Townsville, what a wonderful sight that was, I now have White Ibis’s everywhere, saw my first Sea Turtle on Sunday, whilst having a coffee on the Esplanade, and Sea Eagles & Buzzards, who have to fight off all the Seagulls at every turn, are in abundance. There is here a hidden menace, it is the Brown Stinger, a sea dwelling creature, not unlike a jelly-fish, but with a deadly set of tentacles that give a nasty toxic sting, which can be fatal. (The cure is an instant application of vinegar – bottles everywhere – and an emergency visit to Hospital)

Communications: I now have 24/7 coverage for my mobile (which is from the UK 0061 0420555829). The Major Telecom people boast that they cover 90% of the Country, what they actually mean to say is that they cover 90% of the population, and they all live on the East Coast!!

What they really have is Geographic 10% coverage; I now know that as a fact.

For those I have not been able to text, apart from the above fact, I have after 30 years lost the use of my hand-held computer, that contained all the important info' if you text me with your details, then I will re-enter into my lap-top.

Daily Routine: My routine has changed, as I am within striking distance of the Town Centre, about 8 klicks (there and back) away, I hoof it every day, have my coffee and newspaper (Crossword) and contemplate my navel for about 2 hours, then look at the nearest Tourist attractions that I can walk to, problem is that having been through here before, there is not much to see, but a walk up Castle Hill (Highest Peak) with views to kill for across the Countryside in one direction and out to Sea in the other direction, are stunning, and is on the cards to do!

One Morning had an emergency on my hands, a Tribal Lady had fallen down suffering a Fit, a young tribal girl asked me if I had a phone and could I call the Emergency Services, (what a pickle!) So I dialled 000 (The Emergency Number) they put me through the hoop, I had to explain exactly where I was, and what was actually wrong with the Lady in distress (I would know wouldn’t I, being a tourist an’ all) anyway we prevailed, and they arrived too sweet! The Lady fought tooth and nail against anything they attempted to do, whilst being caressed lovingly by her Husband. (A moving experience!)

The ambulance crew were great, but with a huge amount of Swine Flu about in the Tribal communities, they had to be very careful, but all ended well, she recovered and I hope she will be OK.

Petrol Prices: Mike just for you! the price of Petrol (Fuel) now at 0.59p per Litre, do not stamp your foot or write a letter, it will hurt!!

That is all Folks for this edition of the Nigel J Gauder Bulletin of events Australia.

Keep pedalling along.

Nigel J Gauder.

Hugenden - 20th July 2009

Hi everyone! that is all 140 followers, not just those who have kindly placed their photo’s, but includes all those who have been reading my Blog’s, (so Google informs me!)

This has been Hughenden, (382 Klicks - 240 Miles West of Townsville) where I have been ensconced for 12 days, awaiting the result and repairs to “The Nutcracker Sweet”. (Blew a head-casket I am afraid, through a new hose-fitting – yet another garage faux paux – of not being tightened properly)

I have decided that this enforced pause, enables me to become to official Tour Guide for Hughenden, I have visited, and talked to every person (methinks!) examined every Building (methinks!) attended the local Cloncurry v Hughenden Rugby League Match (My 1st in 20 years, the other being at Warrington v St.Helens. (Where my schoolboy friend Francis Wilson played pro’ football) Hughenden lost by a disputed margin 34 to 33 (Silly Ref’) with a Horse Dressage session on the Sunday afternoon even visited the 2 Churches, who both had congregations of only 4 people.

The RAC have looked after me this time, put me up in a local Hotel for 6 nights (The Royal - what else!) and after sleeping on a Garage Forecourt, with Road-Trains passing every 10 minutes, this is shades of Paradise and I am wallowing in it, letter of thanks off to the RAC, this day!

I have had time to place an Awning Rail onto NCS, she loves it! All I want now is some Sun?? (Or Rain!) But I had better not speak out of turn!

Whilst here, I tried to contact both the Lions and the Rotary Clubs, but due to falling membership they folded 2 years ago. Never mind, I contacted and had an interview with “The Flinders Whisper” a local Newspaper with a 2500 circulation (Goes to print Wednesday 15th July) web page; www.hughenden.com They have very kindly printed a story (page 8/9) on Sightsavers International, that will get the message out there into the local Public Domain, and I am helping to put the paper together (Chief Stapler) on the 15th.

Thanks to both Ann O’Driscoll and Nicci Angus of “The Whisper” for their support (Photo in the rogues gallery). Please note; a Scots Lady an Irish Lady and a Welshman! Strewth Maties!!

Also tried to contact the local RSL (Returned Servicemens League)
to offer a Sightsavers Presentation, but they only meet once a year, ANZAC Day, cannot wait around for a year I am afraid!

My routine during my enforced stay has been to arise about 7am, a full S.S. & S (if you can work that one out?) Then to downtown Hughenden, to the Newsagent for my paper “The Australian” (for the crossword) then a Coffee and two rounds of buttered toast, like my Mother used to make it! (A habit of 45 years), to the Library or Telecentre to do my emails et al, then to the Greengrocers owned by an American – Great Guy! to get my daily fruit intake, (2 Apples/2 juicy Pears). Then a check-up on Spiro (The garage where NCS is parked) to get the latest news (Good or Bad!) on NCS, his instruction is to be able to get me to Cairns via Townsville.

Now confirmed (Thursday 16th) the parts have been ordered and here on Monday 20th, so we are on-track to get under-way again on the 23rd July.

Plus a Hughenden haircut today!! (Thursday 16th July) with the only Hairdresser in Town! I had no choice, but grinned and bore it! all including my eye-brows, ears and nostrils!! And I must tell you a super Haircut!

I have bumped into a local Guy, Tim Thomas (Who is a Cabinet Maker) and with a name like Thomas has Welsh ancestry through his father (a North Wallian), who has been great fun, he has bought a Baptist Church (I always wanted to meet someone who had bought a Church!) not only is Tim and his Pal Gordon Sollaye like-minded fella’s, and they both have a keen interest in Sightsavers and wishes to work for them in either Australia or the Philippines, so I have pointed them in the direction of HQ, so that they can follow their interest through. Tim also cooks a mean Rump Steak! And drinks a little!!

NCS; I have also scoured Hughenden for a broken down, clapped out Toyota Hiace, the same age as NCS, so that I can strip her naked of her engine and move it into NCS, but so far no luck!

Repairs are going to cost approx’ $A3,000 (£1,500) well within the initial budget I had set myself, so I am still in the frame, and she will be ready Tuesday 21st (with luck!). After giving her a thorough testing, I shall get on my way rejoicing (for Townsville) having had a good experience of a Township called Hughenden.

It has been suggested that NCS is an old banger (Hush! I have had to whisper that!) No! NCS is what I bought her with a view of usage for One year, she was a) the right price b) had all the fittings that I required and more c) has performed beautifully for 8,000 miles, and d) has only had faults due to the Garages that I have had to use, (in many cases the only garages available) so I have not lost my faith in my good friend, NCS.

To all of you, the people of Hugenden, that have assisted me, listened to me, bought me those beers, I Thank you Folks.

Funnies; In the Newspaper a report about the Indian Army read as: - The Indian Army has spent $A263,000 on a fleet of “Silent Reconnaissance Vehicles” via their procurement office. Upon investigation it was revealed that they had purchased 22 Golf Buggies to patrol the Armies Golf Course in Channigarh!!! (and we thought we had problems?) the report goes on to relate other purchases i.e. Helicopters that were to patrol over the Himalayas but could only reach 5,000 mtrs (The ceiling is at 6,500 mtrs) The wrong size Artillery Shells that therefore could not be fired, and stretchers that were too small to accommodate bodies?

Went to the local Butchers and asked for ½ kilo of Minced Meat, also how do I cook it in a Micro-Wave? (have one in my Hotel room) he could serve the meat no problem! But how to cook? No answer!, but he did say if I discovered a way to let him know! Well I did it, cooked myself a meal of Minced Beef, Onion, Red Pepper, Olive Oil, Salt & Pepper a Suitable Garlic & Tomato Sauce (came out well after 3x5 minute cooks) and ate it with Flavoured Rice, delicious!! Then printed up the recipe and delivered it to the Butcher, who has pinned it to his wall. (Hope he sells a heap of Minced Meat on the back of that!)

Sign in Bar: “Definitely no dogs or Parrots Permitted” what had the parrots done I wondered?

We have “Come Dancing” (very genteel) here they have a TV programme called “Come Dance your ass off!” (It’s actually about losing weight!!)

Transport: Yes Mike! The price of Fuel is moving up, now at £0.75p per litre, no difference in what fuel you buy!

All goods are delivered throughout Australia by Road-Trains and in-built is an enormous cost for that service, therefore shopping in small towns where there is no competition, is very expensive, with a price surcharge as much as 20% above that of major towns.

There is a local Train service here, the trip to Townsville of only 240 miles, takes 10 hours, Yes! 10 hours, due to there being only one rail (to allow for oncoming & passing trains) and that the rail itself is a continuous rail, the speed limit is at 15 kph (9 mph max) as to go faster may well cause the line to buckle.

During the building of the Adelaide – Darwin railway line they started to build, one gang from the North, the other from the South, it was not until a number of trains were derailed, that they discovered that each gang used a different Steel in the railway line, thus causing it to buckle in the heat on the Northern sector!!

Weather: Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Winter is here, temperatures at 1° at night time, have to don my Bobble hat, Pyjama’s, Woolie-Pullie’s, and thick Red socks (and that is only at night!) in the daytime it gets up to 26°.

These temps’ will last for a while, but will gradually moving upwards as we move into Spring in about six weeks time. My thick red socks which I now wear during the day, with Sandals, draw’s quite a few odd remarks!! (like he must be Welsh!)

Flora & Fauna: None to report on, having been exposed to the wild-life up to now in the Outback, things seem quite dull, No! wait a minute! I have spotted “Sparrows” good old normal sparrows, so it seems that as I move East life returns to normal, until I get there that is.

Weight: I have now reached the weight I was 40 years ago, 13 stone 3 Lb (Down from 15st 7lb), so I have decided to stabilise at that, before I slip down someone’s drain-pipe!

We will see how I have got on with NCS! and what has actually happened in my next Bulletin.

See you in Townsville?


Keep Well Folks.


Nigel JG.

Saturday 11th July - Hugenden

Good Evening All, (Dixon of Dock Green?)

2,255 Klicks (1,410 Miles) further on from the last Blog. (Darwin)

I stayed at Katherine for another 3 days, because unknown to me, the Wednesday (1st July), was “Territory Day” and would be celebrated with a huge “Fireworks Display” just across the road from where I am camped, the locals call it “Guy Fawkes day” but do not know Guy Fawkes or what he represents, so that was quite amusing, proved to be a wonderful sight.

Had my 1st Australian Veggie meal, lots of assorted veggies, oranges, pineapples, cooked in the Camp kitchen, lovely grub!!

My stay at Bitter Springs – Mataranka was again educational, I met with Billy Vorstelman (of Dutch Heritage) who kindly not only provided my Dinner of Giant Prawns, but also when we went fishing, I very nearly, on his advice, and instead of Steak or Lamb using live Fish as bait, and with two bites I nearly caught a very large Barramundi Fish (He got away) but next time!

Swimming in Bitter Springs Clear Blue Spa water at 35 degree’s is quite heavenly, and gives the body that much sought after lift.

Down to Daly Waters, which is a major Tourist Stop and a Pub, where nearly 100 Caravans & Tourist Buses stop every day, disgorge their passenger’s for a drink and to visit, what must be the quaintest “Pub” in Australia, the beer was not arf’ good as well, they had a singer called “Chook” who has been singing there for 40 years

Everyone who visits has left a memento, the Bra Bar is the most Famous, what the Buxom Lasses had to wear when they left, and the mind boggles!! I shall not mention the “Under-pants Bar” all with typical Aussie rude suggestions, you would love it Girls!

I have now travelled down to Three Ways (Nr Tenants Creek) via Mataranka (Bitter Springs) Larrimar & Daly Waters, and decided in my wisdom to turn left for Townsville.

“Alice” as Alice Springs is colloquially known, was is another 400 miles further on, and then to turn around and come back to turn right to Townsville, seemed pointless, I shall however, when I get to Adelaide and Port Augusta come back up the line to Alice.

My route for the past 2 weeks, has been left onto the A66 (The Barkly Highway) Barkly Homestead then to Camooweal (Stayed 1 night) met two people Dell & John who I had met at another Campsite earlier, they had broken down and were forced to await a spare part for their Land-Rover, they invited me to a great Dinner.

Entered Queensland – Clocks 30 mins ahead, now at 9 Hours ahead of the UK, onto the A2 then Mount Isa (Stayed 1 night) Mount Isa is renowned for having the Worlds deepest Mine producing Copper, Lead, Silver, Zinc, plus it is Australia’s Rodeo Town. Chased the RAC Office (remember that 60 hours of awaiting help) got a complaints form and will now bulletise their HQ.

On to Richmond (stayed 2 nights), a Magic Township, difficult to outline in detail, but if the gate to heaven does not have a name, they should name it “Richmond”.

Believe me this is more than a co-incidence, who should I meet yet once again, Dell & John who this time had had a tyre blow-out on them and had come into Richmond to get a replacement.

Then, via Hughenden to Charters Towers, and on into Townsville, my final destination, where I intend to stop awhile.

That was the Master Plan, but just 18 klicks short of Hugenden NCS had a major problem, a water-hose had become disconnected and Wham Bang! She blew her casket, the RAC towed me into Hughenden, where the local garage informed me that he could not consider looking at her until Monday 13th (This was Friday 10th) until then I had to wait around. My policy with the RAC covers me for 3 night’s accommodation, but I have to wait until Monday when we know the extent of the work and time to complete it, before they will confirm a room for 3 nights. Luckily NCS is self-contained, so I rest on an area of a Service Station (Called Servo’s here) until Monday.

I firmly believe that the water-hose became disconnected due to the state of the Highway, which is appalling.

Transport/Driving: Should mention the major forms of Interstate Transport as being the “Greyhound Buses” (Red in Colour) that travel though a prolonged journey between the major Cities, then between Adelaide and Darwin via Alice Springs, there is “The Ghan” Train Service (Very Famous) covering 3,500 Klicks (2,200 Miles). It is a many class Service, 1st/2nd/3rd and 4th with fares from $A2, 500 down to $A99.

My average speed is at between 56/60 mph, that has to be good, compared to the mad hectic need to speed back home.

Out of Mount Isa, the A2 is a roller-coaster of a Highway, badly needs updating and repair, the worst Highway in Australia methinks!

For you Mike, the price of Fuel is now at 70p per litre, but I have been warned that as I move South & West, the price will increase by 4.5p per litre due to increased taxes, will keep you posted.

Funnies/Co-Incidences: Now, the “Australian Wave”. The main one recognised internationally is the wave that is “The Fly Swat”, but we then move to the “Travellers Wave”, every single Traveller who is identified as being on Holiday or on the long haul, in a noticeable form of transport (4x4/Caravan/Ute/Lorry/Bus/Road Train) will and does wave to you, you in turn must wave back (It is compulsory!) at first I thought I was seeing people who I knew?. But no! It is the “Return Wave” that is important, there are three basic waves, the full frontal (Palm outwards and a firm Wave) the single finger wave (Your Index finger and clenched fist) and finally with both hands on the wheel, the two index fingers upright) wave.

They all mean G’day, “Have a Safe Trip” (Wherever you are going) and is a “Comfort Statement” that “You are Not Alone” out there. (Go on! Try it on the M1!!).

Sign in Gents; A Prostate Cancer awareness Poster proclaimed, “No Bum – No Finger, all it involves is a little prick” get yours today!

Met a fellow Welshman at Daly Waters, (who had “I am the Stig” on his T-Shirt) he just happened to have been 16 years ago, a Licensee of a Pub in Gorseinon. Swansea. His name? - “Nigel”. He knew me and my favourite Liquor Wholesaler “Jack Sullivan” well sorry, but I could not remember him, I am afraid.

Walking through the Campsite, I found a bunch of keys; they were labelled as “Jan Wallace – Mobile Number – Swansea”. I went to the site office, sent a text saying that the keys were there, and then noticed it was Swansea. Tasmania (Not South Wales).

You may recall the Broome Blog, I told you of a woman who on the stroke of 5pm, started to play the accordion, well here I am in Daly Waters (2,000 klicks further on), and what do I hear on the stroke of 5pm, the same lady playing the same tunes.

Right next door to me at Threeways an Australian, started to play his Harmonica and sing the Australian version of a range of lilts that astounded me! With him was a young Englishman, Nick Scaites from Wakefield. UK, who was, along with the Ozzie Guy, bicycling around Australia? These Guys are Mad!!

Whilst swimming in one of the Springs, I noticed a couple arrive with really very heavily laden bicycles, they too were off around Australia, where were they from? The Slovakian Republic!!!

For those of you following this Trek on Google Earth, I will be painting on the top of NCS a large NJG, so if you see me, give me a toot! I will wave back, I promise.

Tribal Peoples: I had said that I would now steer away from further debate on the Tribal Peoples, but in a conversation with a group of people, I was told that before 1967 The Tribal people’s had no rights at all, they were not classed as Australians, were banned from working, if they did it was for 25% of the Australian pay, they had a curfew applied to them and lived on declared Reservations and if they broke that curfew, they were automatically gaoled.

Their allocated allowance was doled out by the Police, just enough to keep them quiet! No wonder they are resentful!!

Finale; “We should therefore judge each society, not by its external technical achievements but by the position and meaning it gives to man, by the value it puts on human dignity and human conscience”
Frederick Forsyth “The Devil’s Alternative” Circa 1979.

The Blog: I have been asked how do I write so much and when do I do it? Well, the secret has been to do it daily, and since I am in winter with “lights-out” at 6.30pm, I take 15 minutes daily, to bring the Blog up-to-date, thereby recalling each event as it happens.

Also people have noted my liking for comma’s and full stops, et al, well folks I do the Spelling and Grammar check (although we all know it is the American version) so any errors I make, I put my hand’s up to, the American ones, I no nothing, I am from Barcelona!!

Flora & Fauna: Road kills now include a number of Emu’s along with every other species previously mentioned, Magpies continue to bombard my head, (Drawing Blood), Jay Birds (naked as a Jay Bird as the saying goes) are rampant then we have the Disciple Birds (They only ever group together in 12’s)

I have passed through cattle Country, where the Stations (or Downs as they are called) are vast, some larger than the UK. The cattle are mainly Short-Horn’s or Bramha’s (That is the one’s with large humps behind their heads and a long sagging jowl – they are huge) in talking to a Drover who had just spent 6 months sorting the Bulls out, he told me that they were sending 6,000 of them to China, seems they love the Beef (Organic you know?)

I have seen my 1st Chook, a chicken that lives and thrives in one’s back-yard is called a Chook as opposed to a chicken; Wallabies everywhere (That is except when my friend Billy Vorstelman has not got his Bow & Arrow to-hand, he is a crack-shot and likes a Wallaby Steak's.

I have been surprised by the return to growth that the Bush can undertake when it has suffered a Bush-Fire, it quickly revives itself, I have many photographs of the before and after, they are stunning, as they show the devastation of a Bush-Fire and within a short time (6 weeks) the re-growth that is taking place.

Photographs: Sorry again Folks, we are having a major problem posting them, so what I have decided is – Let me know that you would like a copy of a CD with all 600 of them!, which I shall post to your home address, but you have to give me your correct home address, just in case I do not have it, they will arrive intermittently, they will be captioned and I hope you enjoy!

Email: nigeljgauder@gmail.com

NCS: I espied a Trailer over the other side of this Camp (Richmond) who do graphic signage, so at last!, I have been able to place her rightful title on the front of the Camper- Van, she had asked for it to be done, so for $A45 she is now the proud owner of the title “The Nutcracker Sweet”.

She asked for a wash & brush-up (Done!) Tyres checked (Done!) Water & Oil check (Done!) and like all good girls who get a lot of TLC she now runs like and Angel. (This was just the day before the Casket went!!) Have had a number of Garage created problems, all of which costs and now I have a 2nd Windscreen to buy (Only $A300 - £150 a time) so she was feeling and performing well, but we shall see!

Until 2 weeks time, keep well folks!


Nigel J Gauder

Photos 29th June

Monday 29th June 2009 - Katherine

Hi Everyone,

Well here I am! DARWIN, 8,000 klicks (5,000 Miles) after leaving Bunbury in April, and visiting those many places in between, many of which I have not yet noted in detail.
If I was to draw the actual route I have taken, and then compare that to the initial intended route, the comparison would be enormous.

Arrived 7 days ago via Pine Creek and Adelaide River 300 Klicks (180 Miles) from Katherine.

The Stuart Highway into Darwin was quite the best scenic route I have driven on so far, apart from a major bushfire en-route, that had been started deliberately and as it turned out, was a controlled Bushfire, where they bombard the bush with Petrol Bombs by air to create a Fire-break, it was very alarming as it was just 100 metres off the highway, and I had no idea what was going on, until the Police explained. Strewth Matey’s did I sweat a little!

Pine Creek was a very nice old Township, created in the 1880’s when Gold was discovered nearby, many of the old buildings still remain, Old Steam Trains, Mine shafts et al, with the only local store owned by a Chinese Family, Mom, Pop, Daughters and Sons, (just like home).

Adelaide River was the frontier town of WW2, although a very busy Pit Stop town, was worth pausing in and very interesting, because as I neared Darwin (The Northern Territory State Capital) a dramatic increase in both Traffic and People became very evident.

Then into Darwin, what a change in scenery, A City of wide streets, Avenue’s of all types of Palm & Coolibar Trees everywhere (It is a Tropical City similar to Singapore but smaller in size) large laid-out Parks and Walk-ways, great Shopping areas, and as you would expect, outdoor restaurants offering a wide choice of menu’s across the whole spectrum of dishes. (Barramundi and Chips! Just lovely)

The Bus service is exemplary, for just $A2 (£1) you can get a ticket that lasts for 3 hours, and you can hop on and off as you like, to visit any location.

The Northern Territory is 4 times larger that the UK, with a total population of 250,000 of which a 100,000 live in Darwin.

A Cosmopolitan City which has suffered 4 times in it’s history by being completely obliterated by either Cyclones -3 ( the latest Tracey in 1971) or War in 1942, when the Japanese bombed the City and dropped more bombs that they did at Pearl Harbour.

In each case the City was totally rebuilt and since 1974 all buildings have been built using pre-stressed concrete, thus ensuring that they will weather the next Cyclone, or any other adverse storms.

In the rebuild the types of buildings are stimulating, very much Art-Deco, very Colourful using pastel colours everywhere, which complement the population, who come from every corner of the World, in particular the Asian countries of Japan, China, Philippines, India, Indonesia and all.

Due to the need to be able to press the Japanese during WW2, this part of the Australia (known as The Top-End) became the focal jumping off point for those attacks, and it shows (even after 65 years) there are WW2 Airfields, Army Camps, Military Museums, Cenotaphs, many Memorials everywhere to anybody that took part, but all worthy of visiting (which I have done).

Being the State Capital and the major Administrative Centre for the Northern Territory, the Government Buildings are huge and majestic, be they the State Parliament Building, National Library, The Supreme Court et al, having had a tour it was truly enlightening, they also have a huge Convention Centre, which has an artificial Wave Beach, what great fun! never ever thought I would surf the waves like I did.

I forgot to tell you that my Camp-Site, the nearest to the centre of Darwin, is called “Shady Glen” Magic? Quiet? Shady? Not on your life! I am at the end of the runway of both the International and Military Airports, the Domestic flights by day (when I was out and about) and then (There must be a war on some-where) during the night, flights of War-Planes (6 at a time) thundering past NCS and little ole me!! Am I nuts or what? (Methinks we should move).

Sightsavers: Completed a Sightsavers presentation to the Darwin Nightfill Lions Club, they again have promised at their next Financial Meeting to debate and agree a donation.

NB: (Managed to get press coverage for Sightsavers at Katherine, see; www.katherinetimes.com.au date 17th June - Page 7, top right-hand corner, please ignore the Englishman bit!)

Aboriginals: (The local tribal people are the Lakkaria and are in a definitive minority here).
I have also decided that I shall cease noting the Aboriginal – Tribal situation here, other than to say in a Country that has a population of 21+ million people, 500,000+ being Tribal peoples from approx’ 500+ different tribes, the very last Tribe to walk out of the desert naked with spears, was in 1984 just 35 years ago, it is a continuing disaster for them.

What is a very wealthy nation in both resources and peoples, doing about the problem basically nothing! as Pollies (Politicians) they could not organise a "Piss up in a Brewery"

In other words, a policy of short-termism, and to never be held responsible for your decisions or actions, that is the way that all politicians the World over operate. End of Story!

Will things really change?, sorry Folks methinks not, never in a 1,000 years, they (The Pollies) are paying lip-service to the problems and thinking that throwing money in the form of benefits at the problem, does not work out that way.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I depart for “Berry Springs” which is about 30 miles South from Darwin (having done Darwin to death and walked at least 1,000 miles, well it felt like it!) which has been a firm recommendation by many of those people I have met along with way.

Berry Springs is a delight, Serene and peaceful, I can hear Birds singing, the sun is shining and I am surrounded by trees of every type, and the price is only $A19 (£9.50) per night (Darwin was $A30 (£15) per night) I have a very large Pod, that is what they call them, my own allocated space.

From here I can reach out to those many suggested “Must Visit” sites that have been on my list, problem is that there are so many that I cannot do them all, so for those of you who have kindly noted those locations “Thanks Guys”

Staying here for 8 nights, because my next port of call is intended to be “Alice Springs” that is 1500 Klicks away (900 Miles) so I need to gird my lions for that trek.

Although in confidence I must tell you that I have doubts on making that journey, I have flown over “Uluru” (Ayers Rock) at least 20 times and there is nothing in my being that tells me that I must actually visit the place.

So when I get to "Tennants Creek", I shall decide whether to turn sharp left for "Townsville", or carry on down to “Alice”.

Spent the day exploring Berry Springs, found they have a large pool with a Water-Chute, boy! was it great to race down shouting Yippeeee! That made them sit-up and notice, have not done that in 30 years!

They also have nearby (3 klicks) Hot Spring Waters, similar to Katherine, but larger pools, they suggest that you take your Snorkel with you to view the Fish, Binoculars to spot the Birds, Camera to record it all, next they will tell me what colour my Togs should be! So I did and it was great!

I walk every morning with my neighbour Len Burton the 3 klicks to get our papers and chew the cud that keeps me fit! Elaine Burton is my avid Book person, who has refilled my Library. Thanks to you both.

My next door neighbours Martin & Denise Yard have been very helpful in suggesting alternatives to my intent to attach an Awning to NCS, thanks Guys your advice is appreciated.

Driving: Petrol/Diesel is still at £0.62p per litre and at Woolworth’s you can, if you spend $A30 (£15), get an extra 8 cents off per Litre.

Forgot to mention, that in WA all vehicles have to have an immobiliser, the only state in Australia, to have such theft proof devices.

The other thing I had not mentioned (There are many) is the pride and joy that an Australian has in the cleanliness of their cars and caravans, they are kept immaculate at all times, when they arrive on camp, the number 1 priority is to wash the vehicles, polish the Caravans, I would confirm that when they arrive they are very very dirty.

Someone mentioned to me that if they were to take all the vegetation off the surface of Australia, they would be left with a red planet called “Mars” I thing they are right!

Funnies: Darwin’s ratio of Girls to Boys is 5/1 in favour of the Girls! Now therein lies a story somewhere!

Where in the World can you get a town called “Humpty Doo” except in Australia, a small township enroute to “Kakadu National Park”, not much there, but you have to go and experience it.

Sunday is a dry day here, not a beer to be had! It reminded me of Old Wales, when there was religious prohibition and again no drinking on Sunday (the Sabbath) but an organised Charabanc to England soon sorted that one out!

Saw amidst the many Caravans a Welsh Flag flying proudly, upon investigation, a couple from North Wales who had been down under since 1966, but had to ensure that the Welsh Flag was always flying. (The Ladies husband allowed this, providing the Australian Flag was at the top of the pole)

Wildlife: There is still a variety of wildlife, but they do rely of Crocodile’s as the main players here, they have one called “Sweetheart” who is 5 metres long and has been trained to be able to leap out of the water and take a steak off a pole from the guy in the front of the boat, with 15 people looking on, including me; for my next trick!!

There was case reported last week of a Family having a picnic at Daly Road River, their pet dog decided to have drink, a Croc got him in one fell swoop!

Factual reports say that 3 people have been taken recently, so I am a wary swimmer, despite the notices that warn you to be careful at certain times, I am extremely careful at all times!

There are Wild Boars in abundance and many press photographs of recent kills of the huge beasts, confirm that.

Should mention Mosquito’s & Sandflies, they are present by the billion and remind one of the Midges plagues of Scotland. "Boy! do they bite your Bum!!"

I went one morning to shave and thought I had a bit of cloth on my shoulder, no it was a Giant Spider, I wrestled to the ground, spread his/her 8 legs looked him/her in the eye and Squelch!! That was that!

Then we have the appearance of the dreaded Cane Toad here, a beast of a Toad that was introduced into Queensland to cure a problem with pests in the Sugar Cane Plantations, the cure has become an almighty problem, and there is a price on the head of everyone reported or killed.

Also present are Road-Runners (Egrets), who are a scream to behold, running just like the cartoon figure. Meep! Meep! Plus Plovers everywhere.

Health: I have to report that my health is A1, my toes are perfect, my diabetes perfect, (that is, no side effects) my weight loss continues, but at a slower rate, but 2 stone lighter makes me feel great!

NCS: NCS is performing very well, I have been titivating her with little make do and mend situations, today (Part of that) was the thought to have an awning built into her roof, in thinking that I heard an Electrician working just a few camper-vans away, I asked him if he could drill some holes for me, no problem says he! And proceeded to do just that, he then commented “Is the Van for Sale?” I said yes but not for another 9 months, no problem he said, “How much?” I told him the purchase price was A$6,000, he replied, “OK let me know when you are ready and I shall come and collect her for A$6,000” Woweee! I said to myself, he gave me his card and in due course we shall see what happens!

Fishing: I have never been fishing seriously in my life, but as already explained it is a National priority here, tomorrow I am going fishing with “Alec Hall” a 79 year old “Nomad”, we are going to fish for Barramundi, that Australian delicacy, I shall let you know the result, if we catch a fish or two, perhaps three then there will be photo’s!

Sorry folks have to report that it was an interesting experience, but no Fish!! But we are going again on Saturday; do not wait around to be fed!!

Then Alec suggested that as his main hobby is prospecting, would I like to come with him on a Prospecting Day, of course the answer was yes! Along with Claus and Uta (Germans from Tasmania) we set of in 33 degrees of heat, 95% humidity, drove about 200 klicks (120 miles) to an area that Alec foresaw was an opportunity for us to make our fortunes.

No Luck! I am again afraid to report, but did I learn something boy and I am now a learned experienced Prospector!

I am now back in Katherine, via Edith Falls, for 2 days to send this Blog, and have NCS carb’ cleaned out, then the grand trek South and East, next weeks bulleting will reveal all, and which direction I have decided to take.

Keep Well all.

Nigel J Gauder

Thursday 18th June - Darwin

Hi Everyone,

Just back to Kununurra for a sec’, before the damming of the major water arteries that fed into a central waterway and which had become a mighty problem with constant flooding of the Town, the decision was made to build a Dam and therein the creation of Lake Argyle, which has now made Kununurra into a Major Tourist Resort, and a “Must stop Place” on the Victoria Highway, the Dam also provides Electricity and Irrigation for the population (60% of which are Tribal Peoples).

Should also mention the famed “Boab Tree” (Bottle Tree) which only grows in the Kimberley region and can age upto 2,000 years of age, they grow to enormous proportions, you can get 12 people holding hands around the girth of the trunk, the bark of the tree is 4 inches deep, after that it is a pulpy mash which can, and has been, literally tapped (Beer tap) for water. (Photo’s enroute) the branches grow from the neck of the tree, with flowers that remind me of Magnolia Trees and seeds that are like coconuts.

Then on into Timber Creek, (Home of the Ngaliwurrai Nungali peoples) just came into town to find it had had a power-cut and therefore no Petrol (Ugh!) and Victoria River (the next petrol stop) being 90 klicks away, as I have a reserve 5 gallon can of Gas, I made it! But only just!

Via Victoria River (Home of The Nungia Tribe) is a very nice township, a Farming Town, local markets, good Pub food (Wedding in progress) and of course, Petrol, and believe it or not Police-cars who proceeded to chase a motorist (Followed by me) for miles and miles, what fun!

Then into Katherine, 500 Klicks (300 Miles) later - (Home of The Jawoyn Tribe) - (That experiences regular flooding, depths of 10 metres at times, from the Katherine River that runs through the heart of the Town). A Major Regional Centre that they tell me caters for meeting the demands of the Tribal Peoples, and I believe it, the number of Legal offices advertising what service they can provide (at a price – someone is making oodles of cash out of other people misery!) were many.

A town with Traffic Lights!! a very strange phenomena, and one’s that the locals like to dodge (their Rat Runs).

Katherine and area, has I found a “No Alcohol Ban” for Tribal peoples being enforced, did it have any effect? methinks the answer is no! they will, and do, find a way around the ban and it is very evident when you visit town the following morning, they litter (as well as their rubbish) the parks and streets in a very drunken state.

The Visit to Katherine Gorge was truly amazing, back to what mother nature has done, bathing in the “Hot Springs” was terrific and the different people you meet from all over the World to chat too, whilst swimming, is an experience.

1st Funny: It was 400 klicks back from here that I gave a lift to 2 fellers (tribal speak!) 1 Full Blood, and a white Guy, the Tribal feller was “The Captain” the other was Steve the “Bushtucker-Man” boy! did they assail me on how they survive in the bush, Steve had been on the road for 7 years, living amongst the Tribal peoples, dinner last night (for them) was the Tail of a Wallabie fresh from a road kill, shades of Oxtail soup! Photos available soon.

Sightsavers: Presented on behalf of Sightsavers to the Katherine Lions Club, really nice people, with a donation being routed, also managed to get an interview with the “Katherine Times” (Edition on web asof 19th June) Jean Young is a stalwart of the Club, along with her Dog. (She did offer to give me cash! for some unknown reason I declined).

Driving: Petrol is now down to 62p per Litre and Road-Trains have increased both in number and size, I have mentioned traffic-lights earlier.

Wild-life: Fruit Foxes by the million, now seeing many new varieties of birds, The Barramundi Fish (Barra) - (Barramundi has to get a mention thrice cos’ it is the National Dish) and apart from Drinking & Fishing is the main love of an Australians life. (man or woman)

2nd Funny: Witnessed a Cattle round-up, on one camp-site where there were many cattle, we heard the sound of a Helicopter and boy! did the cattle know who is was, they all exited stage-right at some speed followed at close quarters by the Wasp Helicopter, about 500 cattle were last seen stampeding over the hill. What a sight to behold!

Modes of Travel: I have to tell you Guys that I have never seen such a variety of transport in my life as you see everyday here, from the one man/woman traveller in their Fiesta type car & tent, to the Gin Palaces of the Winnebago’s, (Some people have “Sold-Up” including their home, and taken to the open road, where they intend for the foreseeable future to remain) many tell me that they have been on the road for between 3 – 10 years, and Yes! I do believe that 50% of the Australian population are on the move at any one time.

Places of Interest: I did say earlier that this Blog is not a “Wish you were here” Blog, but I have visited many many tremendous places that I shall relate in due course, but all have been educational and wonderful.

NCS: She has had a new Fuel-Filter (A$20) and is running well and we are heading for Darwin, which I mentioned in my last Edition, and was always the major focus and target of this trip, having worked and lived in all the other Australian Capital Cities, this will complete and close the circle.

Photos: I owe you Guys an apology, “Sorry Folks!” but I need to just tell you that I have many many photo’s, (200++ in all) my problem has been my Laptop, which has really been messing me about, but the good news is that for $A100, I have had it deloused, decoked, they found 50 TrojanViruses which they have removed and doctored my laptop to work OK.

But, just in case, I have sent to my friend Martin in the UK a CD with 200 Photo’s that he is going to place on the Blog, these will be with you shortly, so thanks for bearing with me.

I now head for Darwin, which is 300 Klicks (180 Miles) away and where I intend to stay for a little while, I will give you the run-down of the City life in all its glories in the next edition.

Love you Guys


Nigel JG

Monday 8th June - Kununurra

G'Day Everyone.

Here I am 1152 Klicks (720 Miles) further on into my Trek.

I am now in Kununurra the heart of the Kimberley Region in the North West part of Australia, this is Diamond Country and an extremely scenic part of the world, with many Gorges, Lakes, Meteor Craters, and Sunsets that move the Soul.

This region is the home of the Miriuwung Gagerrong Tribe, numbering about 2,600 souls many of whom are very industrious, they own and run the Tourist Attractions. Although they are very expensive, a round trip, staying overnight with Breakfast by Plane to e.g: Horizontal Falls, will set you back A$700 (350 Quid) and there are many trips like that.

There is an overwhelming feeling amongst the many people whom I have met and talked with, that prices are now too over-the-top and the concensus is that many will not be returning to Western Australia.

Warts and All: I Made this statement at the very start of my Blog; Well sorry Folks here are the warts! Having got NCS fully serviced when I bought her, I have found that a full service was not carried out and New Plugs and Points which were charged for, were not done, Then when She started to stutter et al, at Broome I got an Auto-Electrical Company to check her out, they assured me that having charged $A100 for the call-out, then $6 for the relay switch, I needed 2 new batteries, which all in all cost me $A400, That I thought would be that, well I was wrong!

I set off for Kununurra, via Derby (Pronouced Durby) and 400 klicks into the trek, she stuttered again and faded and I was forced to pull into a Rest-Area, where any and all fellow travellers who saw a bonnet open, volunteered assistance and advice. I then, because there are no Phone Service coverage, Vodafone (Zilch!) Telstra (Zilch!) even the Safari Buses do not carry Satelite Phones, I found myself well and truly stuffed.

Then full of idea's I started to write my RAC details, location etc. etc out many times and handed these out to people who were travelling North/South/East & West, some kind people thought they would contact the Police (if they saw them) and believe me I had great hope, 60 hours later with no sign of anyone , food supplies dwindling, water stocks dwindling, I thought "What do I do next?"

Then, (this is a true story Folks) a large bus arrived, towing another Van behind it, I noticed it just as another traveller, then behold the largest, bluffest, tallest Fellow (He wore a 10 gallon Australian Akubra) approached me, introduced himself as Max and informed me that he had met someone who told him my plight, and if he was going this way, could he tell me that they had tried to get assistance.

Max started by asking me if I wanted the "Good News? or Bad News?" I said the Bad news 1st, he then related that the local garage 100 klicks away, would only come to my rescue if I gave them $A400 cash in their hand, my answer was to tell them to Piss-Off! then the "Good News!" Max was a Pentecostal Minister (Looking after 6 Fijian Children in the Bus) and has worked with the Aboriginal Community for 27 Years, secondly, he was a Country Mechanic and he would fix things for me.

He did Folks, he took of the Distributor Cap fiddled with the points, told me they had not been changed in umpteen years and NCS roared into Life and ran for the next 752 Klicks like a song-bird, that without a doubt was "Divine Intervention", I am now firm believer!

Should mention that the RAC refused to come out to rescue me, I have gave them a right bollocking.

I have had new points & Plugs fitted, again confirmed that the ones already were old and battered, here in Kununurra (I stood over them as they fitted them) now I think that the small problems are behind me, all part of the learning curve.

Funnies: Thought to tell you that my registration number back in the UK was 551, NCS is 553, is that not a co-incidence?

Sign in Shop " Stealing is illegal, the Government does not like Competitors!"

Learnt how to have a "Washing Machine" on the move, you have a large bucket with a sealable lid, put in your "Omo Liquid" fill with hot water, place washing in, and whilst you are on the move, it is shaken all about and washes your clothes, is that not brilliant? all you have to do is rinse them out at the other end.

Went Sunday morning shopping, decided to have 2 rounds of toast and coffee, observed whilst waiting that there was a very old Aboriginal Lady, who was having the Full Monty, as well as a tray of Tea, she ate it all very daintily and rubbed her hands with glee when she finished, That was beautiful I thought!

Wild Life: Lots of Crocodiles now, they are everywhere, in the creeks and rivers, but as they are Freshies (Salties are Sea Crocodiles) they are harmless, but!!, Gulars (Red breasted Cockatoo's) Snakes (Poisonous) and believe or not many many Wild Horses.

Interesting people: Met with a crowd of Swiss people out of Zurich, they had actually sent their 2 fully loaded vehicles by ship, flown in, picked up their 4X4's and had been travelling through the outback (real outback for 12 months) boy! what a trek!

Thought you would like to know whatever happened to "Lord McAlpine" that noted stalwart of the Tory Party (Treasurer) during Margaret Thatchers day, who departed for Australia to set-up a Zoo, he now own's the major part of Broome and Cable Beach and is making oodles of cash! (Read "Once a jolly Bag-Man!")

Rain: It has rained on only 4 days since I came out here, they call them showers and indeed they come and go very quickly, but boy! are they Big Showers!

SightSavers: Now have 3 presentations pencilled in, they are proving for me to be a point of focus, 2 Lions Clubs (Kununurra and Katherine) and 1 Rotary (Kununurra).

NCS's New Clothes: Sorry but I have given NCS a new dress, a little black number, (Painted out the "Adventure before Dementia" on the front wheel cover) and am about to replace it with "The Nutcracker Sweet" when I can find a Graphic Artist to do it for me, methinks this will encourage her to behave from here on in. (Bribery!)

Reflections: This great Country is making History on the hoof! it is happening every day, in the absence of Castles, 2,000 years of any settled (White) human History, there is a great reliance on the Geography/Topography of the Land to make up for any short-falls, the Gorges, Rivers, Forest's & Vast Open Plains, and what Time, Water & Wind has done in the form of erosion to the landscape is making up by offering to the visitor a wide and varying choice of Mother Nature at her very best.

I now route myself to Darwin, that will complete the circle of my having visited or worked in all the Major Cities, Darwin (Named after Charles Darwin) should be really interesting, see next bulleting for details:-

That is all this week Cobbers!

Nigel JG