Sunday, 28 June 2009

Monday 29th June 2009 - Katherine

Hi Everyone,

Well here I am! DARWIN, 8,000 klicks (5,000 Miles) after leaving Bunbury in April, and visiting those many places in between, many of which I have not yet noted in detail.
If I was to draw the actual route I have taken, and then compare that to the initial intended route, the comparison would be enormous.

Arrived 7 days ago via Pine Creek and Adelaide River 300 Klicks (180 Miles) from Katherine.

The Stuart Highway into Darwin was quite the best scenic route I have driven on so far, apart from a major bushfire en-route, that had been started deliberately and as it turned out, was a controlled Bushfire, where they bombard the bush with Petrol Bombs by air to create a Fire-break, it was very alarming as it was just 100 metres off the highway, and I had no idea what was going on, until the Police explained. Strewth Matey’s did I sweat a little!

Pine Creek was a very nice old Township, created in the 1880’s when Gold was discovered nearby, many of the old buildings still remain, Old Steam Trains, Mine shafts et al, with the only local store owned by a Chinese Family, Mom, Pop, Daughters and Sons, (just like home).

Adelaide River was the frontier town of WW2, although a very busy Pit Stop town, was worth pausing in and very interesting, because as I neared Darwin (The Northern Territory State Capital) a dramatic increase in both Traffic and People became very evident.

Then into Darwin, what a change in scenery, A City of wide streets, Avenue’s of all types of Palm & Coolibar Trees everywhere (It is a Tropical City similar to Singapore but smaller in size) large laid-out Parks and Walk-ways, great Shopping areas, and as you would expect, outdoor restaurants offering a wide choice of menu’s across the whole spectrum of dishes. (Barramundi and Chips! Just lovely)

The Bus service is exemplary, for just $A2 (£1) you can get a ticket that lasts for 3 hours, and you can hop on and off as you like, to visit any location.

The Northern Territory is 4 times larger that the UK, with a total population of 250,000 of which a 100,000 live in Darwin.

A Cosmopolitan City which has suffered 4 times in it’s history by being completely obliterated by either Cyclones -3 ( the latest Tracey in 1971) or War in 1942, when the Japanese bombed the City and dropped more bombs that they did at Pearl Harbour.

In each case the City was totally rebuilt and since 1974 all buildings have been built using pre-stressed concrete, thus ensuring that they will weather the next Cyclone, or any other adverse storms.

In the rebuild the types of buildings are stimulating, very much Art-Deco, very Colourful using pastel colours everywhere, which complement the population, who come from every corner of the World, in particular the Asian countries of Japan, China, Philippines, India, Indonesia and all.

Due to the need to be able to press the Japanese during WW2, this part of the Australia (known as The Top-End) became the focal jumping off point for those attacks, and it shows (even after 65 years) there are WW2 Airfields, Army Camps, Military Museums, Cenotaphs, many Memorials everywhere to anybody that took part, but all worthy of visiting (which I have done).

Being the State Capital and the major Administrative Centre for the Northern Territory, the Government Buildings are huge and majestic, be they the State Parliament Building, National Library, The Supreme Court et al, having had a tour it was truly enlightening, they also have a huge Convention Centre, which has an artificial Wave Beach, what great fun! never ever thought I would surf the waves like I did.

I forgot to tell you that my Camp-Site, the nearest to the centre of Darwin, is called “Shady Glen” Magic? Quiet? Shady? Not on your life! I am at the end of the runway of both the International and Military Airports, the Domestic flights by day (when I was out and about) and then (There must be a war on some-where) during the night, flights of War-Planes (6 at a time) thundering past NCS and little ole me!! Am I nuts or what? (Methinks we should move).

Sightsavers: Completed a Sightsavers presentation to the Darwin Nightfill Lions Club, they again have promised at their next Financial Meeting to debate and agree a donation.

NB: (Managed to get press coverage for Sightsavers at Katherine, see; www.katherinetimes.com.au date 17th June - Page 7, top right-hand corner, please ignore the Englishman bit!)

Aboriginals: (The local tribal people are the Lakkaria and are in a definitive minority here).
I have also decided that I shall cease noting the Aboriginal – Tribal situation here, other than to say in a Country that has a population of 21+ million people, 500,000+ being Tribal peoples from approx’ 500+ different tribes, the very last Tribe to walk out of the desert naked with spears, was in 1984 just 35 years ago, it is a continuing disaster for them.

What is a very wealthy nation in both resources and peoples, doing about the problem basically nothing! as Pollies (Politicians) they could not organise a "Piss up in a Brewery"

In other words, a policy of short-termism, and to never be held responsible for your decisions or actions, that is the way that all politicians the World over operate. End of Story!

Will things really change?, sorry Folks methinks not, never in a 1,000 years, they (The Pollies) are paying lip-service to the problems and thinking that throwing money in the form of benefits at the problem, does not work out that way.

Tomorrow, Saturday, I depart for “Berry Springs” which is about 30 miles South from Darwin (having done Darwin to death and walked at least 1,000 miles, well it felt like it!) which has been a firm recommendation by many of those people I have met along with way.

Berry Springs is a delight, Serene and peaceful, I can hear Birds singing, the sun is shining and I am surrounded by trees of every type, and the price is only $A19 (£9.50) per night (Darwin was $A30 (£15) per night) I have a very large Pod, that is what they call them, my own allocated space.

From here I can reach out to those many suggested “Must Visit” sites that have been on my list, problem is that there are so many that I cannot do them all, so for those of you who have kindly noted those locations “Thanks Guys”

Staying here for 8 nights, because my next port of call is intended to be “Alice Springs” that is 1500 Klicks away (900 Miles) so I need to gird my lions for that trek.

Although in confidence I must tell you that I have doubts on making that journey, I have flown over “Uluru” (Ayers Rock) at least 20 times and there is nothing in my being that tells me that I must actually visit the place.

So when I get to "Tennants Creek", I shall decide whether to turn sharp left for "Townsville", or carry on down to “Alice”.

Spent the day exploring Berry Springs, found they have a large pool with a Water-Chute, boy! was it great to race down shouting Yippeeee! That made them sit-up and notice, have not done that in 30 years!

They also have nearby (3 klicks) Hot Spring Waters, similar to Katherine, but larger pools, they suggest that you take your Snorkel with you to view the Fish, Binoculars to spot the Birds, Camera to record it all, next they will tell me what colour my Togs should be! So I did and it was great!

I walk every morning with my neighbour Len Burton the 3 klicks to get our papers and chew the cud that keeps me fit! Elaine Burton is my avid Book person, who has refilled my Library. Thanks to you both.

My next door neighbours Martin & Denise Yard have been very helpful in suggesting alternatives to my intent to attach an Awning to NCS, thanks Guys your advice is appreciated.

Driving: Petrol/Diesel is still at £0.62p per litre and at Woolworth’s you can, if you spend $A30 (£15), get an extra 8 cents off per Litre.

Forgot to mention, that in WA all vehicles have to have an immobiliser, the only state in Australia, to have such theft proof devices.

The other thing I had not mentioned (There are many) is the pride and joy that an Australian has in the cleanliness of their cars and caravans, they are kept immaculate at all times, when they arrive on camp, the number 1 priority is to wash the vehicles, polish the Caravans, I would confirm that when they arrive they are very very dirty.

Someone mentioned to me that if they were to take all the vegetation off the surface of Australia, they would be left with a red planet called “Mars” I thing they are right!

Funnies: Darwin’s ratio of Girls to Boys is 5/1 in favour of the Girls! Now therein lies a story somewhere!

Where in the World can you get a town called “Humpty Doo” except in Australia, a small township enroute to “Kakadu National Park”, not much there, but you have to go and experience it.

Sunday is a dry day here, not a beer to be had! It reminded me of Old Wales, when there was religious prohibition and again no drinking on Sunday (the Sabbath) but an organised Charabanc to England soon sorted that one out!

Saw amidst the many Caravans a Welsh Flag flying proudly, upon investigation, a couple from North Wales who had been down under since 1966, but had to ensure that the Welsh Flag was always flying. (The Ladies husband allowed this, providing the Australian Flag was at the top of the pole)

Wildlife: There is still a variety of wildlife, but they do rely of Crocodile’s as the main players here, they have one called “Sweetheart” who is 5 metres long and has been trained to be able to leap out of the water and take a steak off a pole from the guy in the front of the boat, with 15 people looking on, including me; for my next trick!!

There was case reported last week of a Family having a picnic at Daly Road River, their pet dog decided to have drink, a Croc got him in one fell swoop!

Factual reports say that 3 people have been taken recently, so I am a wary swimmer, despite the notices that warn you to be careful at certain times, I am extremely careful at all times!

There are Wild Boars in abundance and many press photographs of recent kills of the huge beasts, confirm that.

Should mention Mosquito’s & Sandflies, they are present by the billion and remind one of the Midges plagues of Scotland. "Boy! do they bite your Bum!!"

I went one morning to shave and thought I had a bit of cloth on my shoulder, no it was a Giant Spider, I wrestled to the ground, spread his/her 8 legs looked him/her in the eye and Squelch!! That was that!

Then we have the appearance of the dreaded Cane Toad here, a beast of a Toad that was introduced into Queensland to cure a problem with pests in the Sugar Cane Plantations, the cure has become an almighty problem, and there is a price on the head of everyone reported or killed.

Also present are Road-Runners (Egrets), who are a scream to behold, running just like the cartoon figure. Meep! Meep! Plus Plovers everywhere.

Health: I have to report that my health is A1, my toes are perfect, my diabetes perfect, (that is, no side effects) my weight loss continues, but at a slower rate, but 2 stone lighter makes me feel great!

NCS: NCS is performing very well, I have been titivating her with little make do and mend situations, today (Part of that) was the thought to have an awning built into her roof, in thinking that I heard an Electrician working just a few camper-vans away, I asked him if he could drill some holes for me, no problem says he! And proceeded to do just that, he then commented “Is the Van for Sale?” I said yes but not for another 9 months, no problem he said, “How much?” I told him the purchase price was A$6,000, he replied, “OK let me know when you are ready and I shall come and collect her for A$6,000” Woweee! I said to myself, he gave me his card and in due course we shall see what happens!

Fishing: I have never been fishing seriously in my life, but as already explained it is a National priority here, tomorrow I am going fishing with “Alec Hall” a 79 year old “Nomad”, we are going to fish for Barramundi, that Australian delicacy, I shall let you know the result, if we catch a fish or two, perhaps three then there will be photo’s!

Sorry folks have to report that it was an interesting experience, but no Fish!! But we are going again on Saturday; do not wait around to be fed!!

Then Alec suggested that as his main hobby is prospecting, would I like to come with him on a Prospecting Day, of course the answer was yes! Along with Claus and Uta (Germans from Tasmania) we set of in 33 degrees of heat, 95% humidity, drove about 200 klicks (120 miles) to an area that Alec foresaw was an opportunity for us to make our fortunes.

No Luck! I am again afraid to report, but did I learn something boy and I am now a learned experienced Prospector!

I am now back in Katherine, via Edith Falls, for 2 days to send this Blog, and have NCS carb’ cleaned out, then the grand trek South and East, next weeks bulleting will reveal all, and which direction I have decided to take.

Keep Well all.

Nigel J Gauder

Wednesday, 17 June 2009

Thursday 18th June - Darwin

Hi Everyone,

Just back to Kununurra for a sec’, before the damming of the major water arteries that fed into a central waterway and which had become a mighty problem with constant flooding of the Town, the decision was made to build a Dam and therein the creation of Lake Argyle, which has now made Kununurra into a Major Tourist Resort, and a “Must stop Place” on the Victoria Highway, the Dam also provides Electricity and Irrigation for the population (60% of which are Tribal Peoples).

Should also mention the famed “Boab Tree” (Bottle Tree) which only grows in the Kimberley region and can age upto 2,000 years of age, they grow to enormous proportions, you can get 12 people holding hands around the girth of the trunk, the bark of the tree is 4 inches deep, after that it is a pulpy mash which can, and has been, literally tapped (Beer tap) for water. (Photo’s enroute) the branches grow from the neck of the tree, with flowers that remind me of Magnolia Trees and seeds that are like coconuts.

Then on into Timber Creek, (Home of the Ngaliwurrai Nungali peoples) just came into town to find it had had a power-cut and therefore no Petrol (Ugh!) and Victoria River (the next petrol stop) being 90 klicks away, as I have a reserve 5 gallon can of Gas, I made it! But only just!

Via Victoria River (Home of The Nungia Tribe) is a very nice township, a Farming Town, local markets, good Pub food (Wedding in progress) and of course, Petrol, and believe it or not Police-cars who proceeded to chase a motorist (Followed by me) for miles and miles, what fun!

Then into Katherine, 500 Klicks (300 Miles) later - (Home of The Jawoyn Tribe) - (That experiences regular flooding, depths of 10 metres at times, from the Katherine River that runs through the heart of the Town). A Major Regional Centre that they tell me caters for meeting the demands of the Tribal Peoples, and I believe it, the number of Legal offices advertising what service they can provide (at a price – someone is making oodles of cash out of other people misery!) were many.

A town with Traffic Lights!! a very strange phenomena, and one’s that the locals like to dodge (their Rat Runs).

Katherine and area, has I found a “No Alcohol Ban” for Tribal peoples being enforced, did it have any effect? methinks the answer is no! they will, and do, find a way around the ban and it is very evident when you visit town the following morning, they litter (as well as their rubbish) the parks and streets in a very drunken state.

The Visit to Katherine Gorge was truly amazing, back to what mother nature has done, bathing in the “Hot Springs” was terrific and the different people you meet from all over the World to chat too, whilst swimming, is an experience.

1st Funny: It was 400 klicks back from here that I gave a lift to 2 fellers (tribal speak!) 1 Full Blood, and a white Guy, the Tribal feller was “The Captain” the other was Steve the “Bushtucker-Man” boy! did they assail me on how they survive in the bush, Steve had been on the road for 7 years, living amongst the Tribal peoples, dinner last night (for them) was the Tail of a Wallabie fresh from a road kill, shades of Oxtail soup! Photos available soon.

Sightsavers: Presented on behalf of Sightsavers to the Katherine Lions Club, really nice people, with a donation being routed, also managed to get an interview with the “Katherine Times” (Edition on web asof 19th June) Jean Young is a stalwart of the Club, along with her Dog. (She did offer to give me cash! for some unknown reason I declined).

Driving: Petrol is now down to 62p per Litre and Road-Trains have increased both in number and size, I have mentioned traffic-lights earlier.

Wild-life: Fruit Foxes by the million, now seeing many new varieties of birds, The Barramundi Fish (Barra) - (Barramundi has to get a mention thrice cos’ it is the National Dish) and apart from Drinking & Fishing is the main love of an Australians life. (man or woman)

2nd Funny: Witnessed a Cattle round-up, on one camp-site where there were many cattle, we heard the sound of a Helicopter and boy! did the cattle know who is was, they all exited stage-right at some speed followed at close quarters by the Wasp Helicopter, about 500 cattle were last seen stampeding over the hill. What a sight to behold!

Modes of Travel: I have to tell you Guys that I have never seen such a variety of transport in my life as you see everyday here, from the one man/woman traveller in their Fiesta type car & tent, to the Gin Palaces of the Winnebago’s, (Some people have “Sold-Up” including their home, and taken to the open road, where they intend for the foreseeable future to remain) many tell me that they have been on the road for between 3 – 10 years, and Yes! I do believe that 50% of the Australian population are on the move at any one time.

Places of Interest: I did say earlier that this Blog is not a “Wish you were here” Blog, but I have visited many many tremendous places that I shall relate in due course, but all have been educational and wonderful.

NCS: She has had a new Fuel-Filter (A$20) and is running well and we are heading for Darwin, which I mentioned in my last Edition, and was always the major focus and target of this trip, having worked and lived in all the other Australian Capital Cities, this will complete and close the circle.

Photos: I owe you Guys an apology, “Sorry Folks!” but I need to just tell you that I have many many photo’s, (200++ in all) my problem has been my Laptop, which has really been messing me about, but the good news is that for $A100, I have had it deloused, decoked, they found 50 TrojanViruses which they have removed and doctored my laptop to work OK.

But, just in case, I have sent to my friend Martin in the UK a CD with 200 Photo’s that he is going to place on the Blog, these will be with you shortly, so thanks for bearing with me.

I now head for Darwin, which is 300 Klicks (180 Miles) away and where I intend to stay for a little while, I will give you the run-down of the City life in all its glories in the next edition.

Love you Guys


Nigel JG

Sunday, 7 June 2009

Monday 8th June - Kununurra


G'Day Everyone.

Here I am 1152 Klicks (720 Miles) further on into my Trek.

I am now in Kununurra the heart of the Kimberley Region in the North West part of Australia, this is Diamond Country and an extremely scenic part of the world, with many Gorges, Lakes, Meteor Craters, and Sunsets that move the Soul.

This region is the home of the Miriuwung Gagerrong Tribe, numbering about 2,600 souls many of whom are very industrious, they own and run the Tourist Attractions. Although they are very expensive, a round trip, staying overnight with Breakfast by Plane to e.g: Horizontal Falls, will set you back A$700 (350 Quid) and there are many trips like that.

There is an overwhelming feeling amongst the many people whom I have met and talked with, that prices are now too over-the-top and the concensus is that many will not be returning to Western Australia.

Warts and All: I Made this statement at the very start of my Blog; Well sorry Folks here are the warts! Having got NCS fully serviced when I bought her, I have found that a full service was not carried out and New Plugs and Points which were charged for, were not done, Then when She started to stutter et al, at Broome I got an Auto-Electrical Company to check her out, they assured me that having charged $A100 for the call-out, then $6 for the relay switch, I needed 2 new batteries, which all in all cost me $A400, That I thought would be that, well I was wrong!

I set off for Kununurra, via Derby (Pronouced Durby) and 400 klicks into the trek, she stuttered again and faded and I was forced to pull into a Rest-Area, where any and all fellow travellers who saw a bonnet open, volunteered assistance and advice. I then, because there are no Phone Service coverage, Vodafone (Zilch!) Telstra (Zilch!) even the Safari Buses do not carry Satelite Phones, I found myself well and truly stuffed.

Then full of idea's I started to write my RAC details, location etc. etc out many times and handed these out to people who were travelling North/South/East & West, some kind people thought they would contact the Police (if they saw them) and believe me I had great hope, 60 hours later with no sign of anyone , food supplies dwindling, water stocks dwindling, I thought "What do I do next?"

Then, (this is a true story Folks) a large bus arrived, towing another Van behind it, I noticed it just as another traveller, then behold the largest, bluffest, tallest Fellow (He wore a 10 gallon Australian Akubra) approached me, introduced himself as Max and informed me that he had met someone who told him my plight, and if he was going this way, could he tell me that they had tried to get assistance.

Max started by asking me if I wanted the "Good News? or Bad News?" I said the Bad news 1st, he then related that the local garage 100 klicks away, would only come to my rescue if I gave them $A400 cash in their hand, my answer was to tell them to Piss-Off! then the "Good News!" Max was a Pentecostal Minister (Looking after 6 Fijian Children in the Bus) and has worked with the Aboriginal Community for 27 Years, secondly, he was a Country Mechanic and he would fix things for me.

He did Folks, he took of the Distributor Cap fiddled with the points, told me they had not been changed in umpteen years and NCS roared into Life and ran for the next 752 Klicks like a song-bird, that without a doubt was "Divine Intervention", I am now firm believer!

Should mention that the RAC refused to come out to rescue me, I have gave them a right bollocking.

I have had new points & Plugs fitted, again confirmed that the ones already were old and battered, here in Kununurra (I stood over them as they fitted them) now I think that the small problems are behind me, all part of the learning curve.

Funnies: Thought to tell you that my registration number back in the UK was 551, NCS is 553, is that not a co-incidence?

Sign in Shop " Stealing is illegal, the Government does not like Competitors!"

Learnt how to have a "Washing Machine" on the move, you have a large bucket with a sealable lid, put in your "Omo Liquid" fill with hot water, place washing in, and whilst you are on the move, it is shaken all about and washes your clothes, is that not brilliant? all you have to do is rinse them out at the other end.

Went Sunday morning shopping, decided to have 2 rounds of toast and coffee, observed whilst waiting that there was a very old Aboriginal Lady, who was having the Full Monty, as well as a tray of Tea, she ate it all very daintily and rubbed her hands with glee when she finished, That was beautiful I thought!

Wild Life: Lots of Crocodiles now, they are everywhere, in the creeks and rivers, but as they are Freshies (Salties are Sea Crocodiles) they are harmless, but!!, Gulars (Red breasted Cockatoo's) Snakes (Poisonous) and believe or not many many Wild Horses.

Interesting people: Met with a crowd of Swiss people out of Zurich, they had actually sent their 2 fully loaded vehicles by ship, flown in, picked up their 4X4's and had been travelling through the outback (real outback for 12 months) boy! what a trek!

Thought you would like to know whatever happened to "Lord McAlpine" that noted stalwart of the Tory Party (Treasurer) during Margaret Thatchers day, who departed for Australia to set-up a Zoo, he now own's the major part of Broome and Cable Beach and is making oodles of cash! (Read "Once a jolly Bag-Man!")

Rain: It has rained on only 4 days since I came out here, they call them showers and indeed they come and go very quickly, but boy! are they Big Showers!

SightSavers: Now have 3 presentations pencilled in, they are proving for me to be a point of focus, 2 Lions Clubs (Kununurra and Katherine) and 1 Rotary (Kununurra).

NCS's New Clothes: Sorry but I have given NCS a new dress, a little black number, (Painted out the "Adventure before Dementia" on the front wheel cover) and am about to replace it with "The Nutcracker Sweet" when I can find a Graphic Artist to do it for me, methinks this will encourage her to behave from here on in. (Bribery!)

Reflections: This great Country is making History on the hoof! it is happening every day, in the absence of Castles, 2,000 years of any settled (White) human History, there is a great reliance on the Geography/Topography of the Land to make up for any short-falls, the Gorges, Rivers, Forest's & Vast Open Plains, and what Time, Water & Wind has done in the form of erosion to the landscape is making up by offering to the visitor a wide and varying choice of Mother Nature at her very best.

I now route myself to Darwin, that will complete the circle of my having visited or worked in all the Major Cities, Darwin (Named after Charles Darwin) should be really interesting, see next bulleting for details:-

That is all this week Cobbers!

Nigel JG

Thursday, 28 May 2009

Broome - Friday 29th May 2009

Hi All,

Here in Broome for 8 days now, came via Whim Creek and 80 Mile Beach, just 500 miles North of Karratha, it has taken a 7 hour drive, NCS looks good in her new coat of many colours (She wanted a little black number!) but she has responded by being just perfect, apart from a few stutters 30 klicks of here, I think I may have mixed a premium Fuel with the normal grade, she does not like that one bit! Petrol prices are creeping up again now upto 86p per litre on the Higway, a captive audience folks!.

I had an email from John Van Voss of Holland (I have posted it for you to read) who questioned the detail of Karrathas Prices, exclaiming that I must know that it is an expensive place, due to the Miners being paid ultra salaries from mining Gold, Iron Ore, Oil, Gas, Alumna, Copper and Coal from the Pilbara Region. John I know that! but this Blog is a a round-robin to many people, if I was to explain in great detail everything, the blog would be 20 pages long. But I Welcome you to the Club and your contribution, Keep them coming Mate!

Yes! I do agree that I may have been a mite unkind to Karratha, due I am sure to the problems with NCS and the so-called Insurance Company. Karratha is a nice Town, the people were very hospitable Great shopping Mall, and the kind of Township that does represent the Pilbara Region.

I stayed at the Peninsular Palms Hotel at Dampier for 2 days (16 Klicks away from Karratha) which was not a Hotel as such, but a very large complex catering for 500+ Contract Workers, quite the best value for money anywhere, $A125 bought you a super room, 3 meals a day, communal wash-facilities and great customer service, which compared at $A350 per day down-town Karratha Hotel which bought you nothing but a room and surly service.

It was at Dampier (The Burrup Peninsular) that a few days exploring, exposed oneself to a Multitude of Aboriginal Drawings (50,000 Years Old) there were so many it posed the question why? (Photo's coming, especially the Copulating Couple) the scene was Rock Formations that looked like they had been tipped out of the back of a lorry, but no! they were the original Rock Formations (I am sure that a geologist would have an answer).

Driving: Highway littered with Wallabies on the way up, also many Cattle (They must be losing a fortune?) but there again the herds are many 1,000's strong.

Saw 1st Accident, South of Whim Creek, 4x4 in front (About 3 miles away) hit a very large Bull that had just wandered into the Road, Bull deaded, 4x4 a write-off but driver OK, since I was only 15 klicks from Whims Creek (the advice is to stay with your vehicle) once I had ascertained the Driver was OK, I reported it at Whims Creek Tavern and they took care of the necessary.

Met some Folks that evening who told me they were going to visit Whims Creek Tavern, since they had not been there since 1966, I told them it had not changed one bit!

Stayed overnight at De Grey River Camp-Site (Freebee)it was the best so far, shaded by Giant Gum Tree's, Camp-Fires burning, and a very large River alongside, about 25 Caravans were camping, obviously a favourite communal site, also saw my 1st Crocodile. Whilst having a Glass of Sherbert with 2 other people on the river-edge, we espied in the centre of the river, what was first thought to be a log, but noticing that the log has surfaced twice and seemed to cast an eye in our direction, we stepped back smartly, "It was a crocodile!!!!"

Funnies: Here at the Broome Towns Beach Camp-Site we are assailed every evening at 5pm prompt by a lady who plays the Accordian, they are all the old favourites, she told me all she needed was someone to sing-along. Stop Folks! I have sealed lips and did not fall into that one, even though I am a Welshman, there is an adage that says "1 Welshman is a problem, 2 are bloody trouble, 3 are a Choral Society" buit she plays beauitfully boyo's!!

Walking into Town, there is a large daubed sign that exclaims "There are no Jobs on a Dead Planet!" - True!

Wildlife: Forgot to mention "Budgies" there are 1,000,000's, plus lots of Crocodiles now, Ibis, Sea Eagles (Look like the American Bald Eagle), Hawks, they also have one bird that is extremely raucous (Looks like a Starling) but has great bright plumage, Magpies are not black & white, they are White and black and are very fond of sweeping down and pecking at the top of your head! Bastards! and of course, the poor old Wallabies, seem 2 Iguana's who just sail across the road and in the old tradition of Sail before Steam, you just slow down and let them sail away.

Photo's: I have not forgotten, it is just that Libraries (Which I normally use) do not allow Photo's to be sent, I have now about 200, but I do have an idea, so do not be surprised if you have on an email a zipped-File of photo's, they will last about 3 hours and I shall have to visit you and explain each on at great length??

Weather: Now coming into Autumn here (Winter in the South) had a few days rain, but nothing to write home about, still at 30 degrees and getting very humid, now sleeping in the "Nuddies" (Hope there are no Fires?) but I will survive.

Health: Looked in the long mirror the other day and my "Love handles" have disappeared, better get a "Full Monty Breakfast" down me before I fade away, but to know my 12 pack is starting to show is embarrassing!

Broome: Yes! John Van Voss is right, it is a major Cattle Exporting Port, but it is also Australia's Centre for Pearl Fishing, started in the 1880's by Chinese/Thais'/Malays/Filipinos/Japanese and Europeans, you can see the traces of all the Nationalities in the Population as you walk the streets. There are many Retail Pearl Shops, they are a delight to behold and prices? I shall not mention.

Aboriginal's: There are a very large Population of Aboriginals in this area, they are interesting to observe (I experienced them at close quarters the last time here during the 80's) They are a Tribal People with many Tribes and Tribal Lands, they are referred to as "The Indigenous People" which I believe to be a blanket description and a little unfair. They are in Stature & Colour (Very Black) to be the same, but they are not, like the Indian Tribes of North America (Sioux - Apache - Cheyenne) they have many Tribal names like: Yawuru-Djugan-Goolarbabooloo-Bardi-Jawi-Nimanbura-Nyal Nyal-Jabirr Jabir- Karajarri and Nyanguarta peoples, and that is just in this area. Their average Life-Span is just 45 years but, they have a proven existance spanning 50,000 Years.

This specific region is where "The Dreamtime" - "Bugarrigarra" originated and rippled throughout Australia using "Song-Cycles" which relayed the stories of "The Dreamtime", so there is just cause perhaps, to address these people by their Tribal names (Though they are long and difficult to pronounce) methinks that in doing that the word "Pride" would infect their physque to everyone's advantage, as at the moment there is an under-current of neglect and unhappiness which is very evident.

I have now completed my 2nd Full Sightsavers presentation to the Broome Rotary Club (Completed 4 presentations in all to-date) they were delighted to have a Guest Speaker from 11,000 miles away who had flown in specially for the night? they have made a promise to review their Charitable Donations and include "Sightsavers" into the fold so to speak. Thank you Folks.

Poor Ole "Nutcracker Sweet" has had a hiccup, although in preparation for going further North, (Oiled, Watered & TLC) she failed to start, Garage suggested batteries (So bought 2 - 75 quid each!!) then an Electrician arrived, who charged A$100 Call-out fee, to find that the Relay between the Starter-Motor and the Alternator needed replacing (Cost A$6), as I write this Blog, I am having her checked out so that there are no more problems, being stuck 250 miles in between major towns would not be funny!!

Tomorrow (Saturday) I head North to Derby, which is very Tropical and Humid, they have told me locally don't do it (Go to Derby they mean) then onto Fitzroy Crossing (Again Don't do it they say!) en-route to Kunnanarra, but I have places that I "Must stop at" and I shall report on my next Blog what the results of those visits are.

The next Blog may well have a gap, this is because further North it is Wilderness and the ability to get to an Email site may well be difficult, but hang-on in there Folk, as I shall return!

Kind Regards

Nigel JG













Tuesday, 19 May 2009

Wednesday 20th May 2009 - Karratha

Hi Everyone,

(Including the Lady from Shanghai, who asked if she could join me, and closed her email requesting me to “Send the Money!”)

Photo’s next week I am afraid, cos’ this week has been a difficult one.

Pannawonica: What a place, what great people Toni & Alex are, I am now a much educated “Mining Expert” (Methinks!). The Town is a Company Town, servicing the “Robe Mine” which is Rio Tinto and at which both Alex & Toni work, along with 90% of the 3,000 inhabitants of the Town.

Both Guys (Toni is only 5’ 3”) drive the Huge Tipper Trucks (and many other like-size vehicles, as and when necessary) which hold upto 200 Tonnes of Iron Ore in its raw state, which is then sorted into various grades, loaded onto Trains of 150 Trucks holding 500 Tonnes each and taken to Loading Ports in North Western Australia i.e. Dampier - Port Hedland and Broome.

Alex took me on the “Grand Tour” remarkable!, kitted out in the H&S gear, hard Hat on, (I thought the pay office would be the 1st port of call) I was ready, Alex called up the Company Car, which was an absolutely enormous Tipper Truck (Plenty of Photo’s coming) and once we had surmounted the ladders (All 3 of them) we got to the Drivers cabin, and what a view of the World from there!.

The Mine itself covers about 10 square miles, encompassing all the various vehicles required in servicing keeping the mine operating 24/7 – 365 and boy was it busy! And never-ending, (although I did think that driving around in circles loading and unloading) was boring; no wonder they need a variety of drives.

Photo’s in the bag.

As you can imagine, the pay is good. (Better than good! more like Excellente)

Also met with Darryl Niness of the Karratha Lions Club, who is keen to represent to his small band of followers, the virtues of supporting “Sightsavers International” Thanks Darryl.




Karratha: (The Mining Capital of the Pilbara)

Bugger! Bugger! And Bugger! And Bugger!

After having such a great time, I set off on Monday 11th May to attempt to get NCS repaired, it all seemed so easy, the Manager of the Driver that had hit NCS, accepted responsibility, just get 2 quotes they said, submit them and “Bob’s your Uncle” that was until I hit Karratha.

This is a Cowboy & Indian Country and I have seen the Squaw’s and there are very limited trades people in any one profession, but hey ho! I busied myself finding them, it seemed simple and got promises from 3 Fender Benders that quotes would be sent asap, Great!

Then the problems began, 1st quote arrived (remember NCS cost me $A6,000) for $A5,800 (Just a superficial dent remember) the 2nd could not obtain the parts, the 3rd went on Holiday, then the Insurance Company played funny-buggers, they wanted me to fund repairs/Hotel and Hire Car upfront and they would repay me down the line!! (Where have we all heard that one before?)

Well it has been a battle, millions of emails between myself and the Insurance Company (Who turned out not to be an Insurance Company at all – they were a Fleet Management Company) who despite accepting fault, and since this was a new situation, found that they could not cope and were continually having Conferences about this unorthodox chappie who was Welsh and giving them great hassle.

It was not until I threatened (as a tourist) to go to the local Newspaper with a Human interest story, suggesting that they could not pay their bills, was everything settled, but boy! has it been a hassle!

By the way, Car Repairs at $A5,800, Hotels are $A350 a night (3 Nights) and Car-Hire at $A300 per day (3 Days) that was the figure that I was expected to fork out in advance, with that promise of payment in due course.

I collect NCS on Thursday 21st May and then Folks, I drive North as fast as I can, where to? I do not know yet, just north!

Now the good news! I have completed my 1st Full “Sightsavers” presentation to the Karratha Rotary Club (Photo in the bag) and they kindly donated £250, which is being routed to the UK.

Driving: have now notched-up another 400 Klicks (240 Miles) this week, but must mention “Road-Trains” they are huge, minimum of 36.5 metres long, usually with 3 Bogies/Trailers and travel at the maximum speed of 110 kph (70 Mph), the down-draught not only shakes you, but takes you into a vacuum and you hold on for your life! They tell me that in the North they can by 5/6 Trailers long and do not stop for anything, when you see them you get off the road! That will be interesting.

Petrol/Diesel: Sudden reduction in price now at 66p per litre that’s good.

Woolworth’s: Woolies here are the Tesco of Australia, huge, well presented, a range of goodies that encompasses, at great prices, Food/Hardware/Dry Goods/ Clothes et al, you name it they have it! (For those who had to have their Woolies injection you would need to take a huge breath).

I have travelled this week through Dampier (Good Camping Spot) Point Samson (Good Fish & Chips) Wickham, Cossack and Roebourne (Aboriginal Township) all very interesting in their own way. (Kept me busy)

The next week is a hard one, about 800 klicks (480 Miles) to Broome, hereon in it will be a steep learning curve as I move further North, fortunately it is Winter and the temp’s are starting to fall (29) today and there is a chill in the air in the mornings.

Well as Zeebadee would say, Time for bed Folks! "Good-night"


Nigel JG

Saturday, 9 May 2009

Sunday 10th May 2009 - Pannawonica - WA

Hi Boys & Girls,

I thought that before I start this weeks Blog, that you may want to know the terminology that I am encountering. I had mentioned before that I am part of a Tribe known as the “Grey Nomads” (I have noticed to that they are all well into their 80’s) and have travelled from all parts of Australia, e.g:like 8 days travel from Adelaide to Exmouth, to spend 5 Months of the Winter in the North, they exist weekly by awaiting payment of their pensions and if they feel like moving they will do just that, until the pension runs out, then they go on again.(I have decided not to be one of this Tribe).

Then there is the term “Around the Block” that means that anyone, and there are many, including me, who are travelling around the Coast of Australia, and are just going around the block (The last time I went around the block, I had just bought my 1st car, a Standard 10 for £5) and my 1st driving lesson was once around the block. (Mike you will remember that!)

Without exception everyone wishes you a “Good Morning” – “How are you” – “Hows it going” the proverbial “G’Day Mate” and they mean it, (Unlike the “Have a nice dayeeeee” syndrome that we all love) they could not be more helpful, and once they hear the accent, “Behold” they will engage you in conversation and let you know of their very strong connections with the UK.

Pollies (Politicians) are like back home, a laughing stock, on the left we have the Labour (Labor) Party shouting at the Liberals “Wankers! And a plague on all your Policies” with the Liberals on the right, arguing amongst themselves as to “Who has the largest swinging Dick!” (Not my words, they come straight out of today’s National “The Australian” Newspaper) If only it was like this in the UK, we would then be interested in Politics would we not?

Beaches: Now the children have all gone home after the Winter Break, the Beaches are denuded of people and I have spent this week at Exmouth (A National Park) where there are no people, and to spend a day on a 5 mile stretch of Beach “T-bone Bay”, or walk a 10 mile beach on one’s own, is absolutely magical.

Wild-Life: Again, predominantly Kangaroo’s and Emu’s are everywhere, and yet again many dead by the wayside, also there are “Termite Cities” huge mounds of ant-hills that are taller that Nut Cracker Sweet and that stretch for miles across the Countryside, each holding a Billion Ants, they rule this part of the World.

Costs:
Thought you would like to know some costs, Food is the same as the UK, just a shade more expensive where you are out in the sticks, Meat is cheap, that is a T-Bone steak for £3, come on folks it cannot be real! Camping Park charges cost about £10 per night with power, showers, toilets etc available and very clean.

Petrol & Diesel now at 85p per Litre is creeping up as I travel north and the qualities of the Roadhouses are going downhill fast.

I am about to move into the lower end by using the “Free Sites” which are pretty basic and have no charge, but also no facilities. I shall let you know, NCS is self-sufficient and I carry all I need, but it will be an experience.

The National Parks that have, of course, the best beaches charge about £5 for entry and have cheap camping sites, will also try them as and when necessary.

Beer is extortionate at £4.50p per Pint and is not worth it, how the Australians have accepted this situation, I do not know! I am awaiting the Revolution!!

Friday 8th May @ 3.00pm: Well I have now travelled another 633 Klicks (395 miles) North and am parked on my 1st Overnight Free Campsite, it is a treat (It costs nothing!) and to meet other happy Campers, all of whom make a point of coming across, saying hello and inviting you to partake later that night.

Funnies! I have just passed 2 people on bicycles, they are peddling like mad in the direction I have come from, and there is nothing behind me for 200 miles!! Where are they going? Then along comes a motorbike with a trailer! They are fully kitted up and must be boiling away to nothingness!

Tomorrow, Saturday I travel about 46 klicks to stay with Alex & Toni Reid in Pannawonica, a Real Mining Town, where they both have kindly arranged for me to visit the Iron-Ore Mine where they both work, and as they both drive these absolutely Huge Tipper Trucks, the photos should be good and I should have improved my education on Mining.

Photo’s: As I have taken about 100 photo’s to-date, and since I have declared that my intent is not to rub it in, I thought that next weeks Blog, (now that I have learnt to up-load photo’s) will be a selection of them, so you are forewarned, just do not open them up!

Tragedies: I had meant to tell you this way back, but I thought that the Post would catch up with me by now, but to-date nothing! It is that one of the parcels I sent ahead of me, has gone astray, it would be the one that contains all my diaries from the 80’s when I was last here, you know the one’s that contains all the names, addresses, telephone numbers of all those people that I knew, one parcel did come out to Australia and was read wrong and sent back, I am hoping the same has happened again, if so I will be lucky, if not then, I will remain bereft of that information.

Accident I am afraid, I closed the tailgate of NCS right on my Nobes (Nose) and as my mother used to call me a little bleeder, I know she was right! Not broken, but a gash all the same.

Yes! Things do come in 3’s, I arrived in Pannawonica early (Surely not early some of you would say?) and managed to use a Caravan Park facilities, like the Ablution Block to S,S&S, then after 6 weeks of motoring gave NCS the best wash & brush-up she had ever had, and boy! Did she look good!

I then parked outside the home of my Friends Alex & Toni, only to have later that day, a chap in the house opposite, reverse out at speed and ran into the side of NCS, Damage? Superficial, but it will now be the inconvenience of getting it repaired, it has been suggested that I wait till I get to Broome, (800 klicks – 480 miles away, there is possibly no-one in between.) before I get a quote!!!!!!!!

Coffee: This is for the Girls at Costa’s Coffee CafĂ© in Weymouth, No Girls! There is no where to get a decent coffee here like you make it Girls, although there was a close 23rd and it was called “Brumby’s” in Exmouth. Thanks Girl’s.

So now I shall just “Sod Off” for this week.

See you in 7days!


Nigel JG

Sunday, 3 May 2009

Monday 4th May 2009 - Exmouth


This is my Aspiration!!

Well Folks,


A little later than the normal 7 days, but it has been a busy time, places to go, people to meet, things to do.

There is a catch-up from last weeks Blog, and that is that I did not give Ron (Bunbury) his just desserts. Ron is Cardiff lad who came out here many years ago and instigated, developed, and nurtured, “Soccer” in South West Australia, with many of the Clubs having a “Red Dragon” as part of their logos. Shortly he will be organising another of Soccer’s “Hall of Fame Events” (Happens every 5 years) where Ron in his Presidential mode, will be the Master Organiser.

As I have said before, the Master Plan on the envelope is now way off course, the help and advice from everybody, has meant that there are places that I must visit, based upon local knowledge, and they are proving to be just that, Thanks Folks.

I also said that I did not want this Blog to be a “Wish you were here” Blog; I want it to reflect events as they arise and those that overtake me as I mosey along.

The route is the Coastal Highway, which runs all around Australia and is Number 1, for those that have a map and are following avidly.

I am now into my 2nd week and having reached Exmouth, via Bunbury – Perth – Dongara – Kalbarri – Denham - Monkey Mia (Where Dolphins swim with people) - Carnavon – Coral Bay and now Exmouth, distance? 1813 Klicks (1,133 Miles). My initial plan was to do about 100 miles a week, now blown right out of the water because of the great distances involved, and that many locations are not about 50 miles apart they are 250 miles apart.

Driving: Cost are now escalating, from the initial 52p per litre in Perth, now an average of about 70p per litre as I move further North (Delivery costs).

Roads: They are straight as a Die and the only way I can describe the conditions is that they are empty, it is like getting on the M1 at Leeds and the car in front of you is in Northampton.

Wild Life: In abundance, Eagles, Foxes, Dolphins, Sheep, Cattle, Emus, Goats, Pelicans and Fish galore, all shapes and sizes, and the poor old Kangaroo’s? They are now very evident and everywhere, but the Roads are littered with dead ones, hundreds of them, (Methinks that there are none left!).

Funnies: Arrived in Dongara and booked into Camper Park, only to hear a Beautiful Welsh Lilt from the receptionist, (It was Margaret from Llandeilo) who gave another Welsh person all the help he needed.


How about T.BONE & SON (Butchers) or a Cafe where you can have coffe and a massage!!


At Kalbarri it was ANZAC Day, and boy! do they do it in style,

The First Service was at 6am, this commemorates the start of the day for Soldiers past preparing for Battle, then at 11am the main Service, which is attended by everyone especially the young who are being reminded that “Lest we Forget” and “We will Remember Them” are poignant reminders of the debt we all owe the fallen. It was here that I also met with Len Mitchell (They do not have Mayor’s) the Head Honcho of Kalbarri, who through the Rear Admiral (Guest speaker at the service) whom I had the opportunity to discover he and his wife had a very strong connections with Weymouth & Portland.


The photos that I took of the ANZAC memorial on Weymouth Promenade have been sent to them and they want to start to discussions on Kalbarri possibly twinning with Weymouth (I have put this matter in hand).

At Shell Beach (Near Denham) I met Sharon & Brian from the Lake District, who are down-under for 6 weeks. We found that they, by coincidence, and I, were booked into the same Camper Parks, and boy! Did we get on well; they will remain a cherished memory of this trek.

SightSavers International: Am making progress Folks, now had 2 meetings, 1st in Bunbury (Through Ron) whereby a Town Councillor Derek Spencer, who has a Network of noted people throughout Australia, has kindly put my details in the pipeline to all the Rotaries, Lions Clubs, Chambers of Commerce et al, for them to make contact with me to book dates for a Guest Speaker.
Thanks Derek.

Then in Carnarvon (No relation to Caernarfon – This is named after Lord Carnarvon of the Mummy Tutten Ka Mun fame) I met with the President of the Rotary Club, but since I had missed their regular meeting, he gave me the Directory of all the Rotary Clubs in Australia, so I can now make bookings well in advance. Thank you.

I was asked this week (email) if I was lonely and if I was Happy? Well! In short form I am both, because they are both relatives, a) I have been on my own for nigh on 90% of my live, the nature of the work that I have done, so I have never been that lonely and b) Happiness is egg shaped, round and oval and effected by the people you meet, events that take place, they are what determines happiness at any one time, the answer? “I am perfectly happy in my own skin.”

To finish this week on a Good News note, I have lost a stone in weight, feel great, walking every day, now swimming every day and eating regular, (Kangaroo meat tastes beautiful), and am now a slighter shade of Black! (For those of you who say “Bugger Off Nigel” I shall).

Back in 7 days Folks.

Nigel JG